PVC To Copper Pipe -Help Guide -Products

PVC Pipe Heart - Does Your Heart Skip Beats

2011-02-10T21:52:00.001-08:00

PVC Heart - Does Your Heart Skip Beats

However be aware that some medicines that you can be prescribed from your doctor can actually increase your PVC's or have health risks involved.

When Do people Experience PCV's?

You can have a PCV at any given time with no affects other than feeling your heart skip a a beat or two. Some people can also experience PCV's after taking a deep breath or while laying in bed.

Also it has been reported that you can have an increase of frequency from eating certain foods or from being under stress.

I get an increase in frequency of my heart skipping beats after I drink milk. Within hours or within a day or two I will notice an increase in frequency. Also when I'm stressed I will get more as well. Sometimes I think that I'm not under any unusual stress at the time but later on when I look back I do see that I was.

What you may suspect, or may not know, is that PVC's are very common with people who have panic or anxiety attacks and can be very frightening to the person.

I know, because I've had them for approx. 30 years. I developed panic attacks and PCV's when I was around 12 years old.

Do you get panic attacks? If you do, you may or may not have skipping heart beats while you having an attack. You may just have a racing heart, sweaty hands, feeling of unreality, tightness in your chest, feeling that you may stop breathing, or other symptoms.

Manufacture Polypropylene Pipes And PVC Pipes

2011-01-29T08:44:00.000-08:00

Manufacture Polypropylene Pipes And PVC Pipes

Manufacturing of Polypropylene Pipes:- Polypropylene Pipes (PP) pipes are manufactured by extrusion in the same way as PE pipes. Particularly in the case of PP pipes there are several different molecular structures available on the market. In the simplest case the molecular chain is built up of one and the same repeating unit often the same as the monomer shown within the brackets). The polymer is then called homo-polymer.

If instead the molecular chain is built up of two different repeating units( A and B) the polymers is called co-polymer. In the case of PP the homo-polymer, often designated to PP-h, the repeating unit A is the monomer propylene. In PP co-polymers, designated to PP-c, the unit B is the monomer ethylene. Dependent on how the repeating units A and B are arranged in the molecular chain, distinction is made between alternating, co-polymers: "ABABAB..." (PP-c), block co-polymer :"AAAA....BBBB....AAAA...." (PP-b) and random co-polymers "AABABBAABBAAA....."(PP-r). In the later case the co-polymer is built up at random by the units A and B.

The stiffness of the PP pipe will decline in the order: PP-h-PP-b-PP-r and consequently the impact strength will increase simultaneousness. It has also been found that the long-term strength at elevated temperature: (600 C ) will increase when going from PP-h to PP-r most commonly used for PP sewer pipes and for cold water pipes id PP-b . Particularly for sewer pipe purpose new high molecular weight resins have been developed recently. The melt flow rate expressed as MFR230/2 may be in the range of 0.3g/10min. This value corresponds approximately to 0.6 expressed as MFR190/5 normally used for PE.

The most significant property for these new PP grades from a practical point of view as far as buried pipes is concerned, is the rather high short term E- modulus; i.e. Approximately 50% above corresponding values for the most common PE grades. The density of the PP compound is lower than for corresponding PE resins, or approximately900kg/m3 as compared with 950-960kg/m3 for PE. The designation for these polyethylene resins is PP 80.
By improvement of PP-r grades high temperature resistant hot tap water pipes have been introduced recently. They can compete with PB for many hot water applications, but are easier to process than pex and safer than PB as far as strength reproducibility is concerned. Furthermore, the PP pipes can be jointed by welding , which is not the case with pex.

Manufacturing of Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes :- Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes (PVC ) and P P R pipes can be manufactured with or without plasticizer. Examples of the former are garden hose, floor tiling and household articles. The addition of plasticizer increases material flexibility, but leads to some deterioration in other physical properties. Furthermore, some plasticizer display a tendency to migrate, escaping in the course of time so that the plastics becomes brittle. For these reasons, no pastiches are used in the manufacturer of PVC pipes for water mains and sewers. In this respect, the material is characterized as rigid PVC and this variety is termed PVC-U according to ISO.

As in the case of PE, where melt flow rate describes the molecular weight of the material, PVC makes use of what is termed the K- value, It may be determined in various ways , but in the following pages consideration is given to the value obtained in accordance with the Fikentscher method, based on 1% PVC in Cyclohexanone at 25 C. A K-value of 65 determined in accordance with this method corresponds to viscosity grade of 105 according to ISO/R 174, 1961. K-value increase with rising mean molecular weight of the polymers, i.e. With greater molecule length. As for PE, the strength of a PVC material then improves, but at the same time it becomes more difficult to process. The K-value of PVC pipes normally lies in the range of 65-70, another definitive characteristic of PVC is its softening temperature, as compressed as what is termed the softening point (Vicat-Point).

Normally this lies between 70 C and 80 C . A rise in softening point leads to improved distortion resistance to heat and as a rule, also improved strength properties.

Distinctions are made in raw materials between emulsion, suspension and bulk resins. Manufacturing processes based on this order of raw materials, ensure, among other things, increased purity and lower water absorption in the PVC material. The most common type is suspension PVC (S-PVC), although emulsion PVC (E-PVC) also exists.

How do I connect CPVC to copper pipes?

2010-09-24T09:44:00.000-07:00

How do I connect CPVC to copper pipes?

Are there any disadvantages/advantages when connecting PVC
How do I join PVC pipes to copper pipes ?‎
How do I connect CPVC to copper pipes?‎
How do you connect a copper pipe to a pvc pipe...indoor plumbing

Transition to PVC pipe from copper pipe by connecting a PVC threaded female adapter to a copper male threaded adapter. This connection allows you to use much less expensive PVC line to lay a sprinkler or irrigation system, a domestic water supply line or a swimming pool plumbing system.

How the fittings are installed on pipe depends on the material. For example, copper pipes are soldered together or joined with compression or flare fittings. Plastic pipes are joined with plastic screw-on fittings or PVC cement. In addition, transition fittings can be used to join plastic and metal pipes.

The Most Popular Pipes Used By Pipe fitters

2010-09-13T21:34:00.000-07:00

The Most Popular Pipes Used By Pipefitters

There are many available types of pipe for the pipefitting trades. I've worked with all of them. From black steel to blue brute underground piping, you name it and I've installed it at one time or another around the Los Angeles area. While you may think if you have seen one type of pipe then you have seen them all, think again. The wrong pipe installed in the wrong location can spell financial and structural disaster in just a few short months. PVC Fittings Pipe - Using Plastic PVC Pipe - How to fitting pipe?

Black Steel - the standby for sprinkler and gas lines. This type of pipe is available in varying wall thickness, called "schedule". The standard thickness for black steel pipe is schedule 40, which is more than enough steel to allow for machine threading. Black Steel piping can never be used for water supply lines; it is used primarily for gas lines and for automatic fire protection systems.

In recent years, the high cost of steel has spawned a thinner schedule pipe that is less expensive to manufacture but still allows for machine threading. While the thinner schedule piping can significantly save on material costs (especially when installing a new system in a high-rise building or equally large structure), there have been many instances when the thinner piping could not handle machine threading and ultimately had to be uninstalled due to leaks or pipe ruptures.

Most contractors (and installers) prefer to use schedule 40 pipe even though it is more expensive to purchase. The lower schedule (thinner) piping is perfectly fine for machine-grooved installations that require the use of mechanical couplings.

PVC Plastic - Most common piping used for drain lines inside and outside of the house. This type of piping is easy to work with and can seemingly last forever. When used on supply lines, extra care must be taken during installation because PVC joints have been known to fail during prolonged use under pressure.

CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) - CPVC has proven itself as a replacement to copper piping. It can handle high supply pressure, is easy to install, is immune to aggressive water that would otherwise eat through copper piping, and can handle 180 degree water temperature.

CPVC is substantially less expensive when compared to purchasing and installing copper piping. When working within your house, CPVC is by far the easiest piping to work with. However, not all cities have adopted CPVC for residential use. Check with your local planning department to find out if this type of piping is approved for use in your city.

Galvanized Steel - well known for being the strongest piping available for supply lines, Galvanized steel requires special threading dies and cutters. In the mid 90's, I installed an entire Galvanized steel sprinkler system for a 3,000 square foot office in Beverly Hills. Our fabricator mistakingly used the wrong dies for threading the pipe. The result: leaks, leaks, and more leaks!

The system had over 100 leaks throughout the suite and we worked for weeks to try to fix each individual leak before realizing the error had been made by the fabrication company. Eventually, we had to tear the system out and completely reinstall it with black steel piping.

Copper Pipe - This is the most common piping used for supply lines. It is available in both rigid and flexible format. Copper Piping can be connected by two different methods: soldering and compression fittings. The better piping will require soldering.

Ductile Iron Pipe - This is the ideal choice for high pressure, underground water supply lines. It is stronger and easier to tap into for future water supply. Compared to other piping made from other materials, it requires much less support and provides a better flow of water.

Those are the primary types of piping available to fire sprinkler fitters, plumbers, and steam fitters. Each trade has its own preferred (and often required) type of piping. And every pipe type requires special tools and skills in order to cut, prepare, and install.

Interested in working with pipe for a living? The pay is great and work is always plentiful. Check with your local pipefitters union to learn more about your local pipe trades.

The Leak - How to Repair the Leaking Water Pipe

2010-09-03T20:20:00.001-07:00

The Leak - How to Repair the Leaking Water Pipe

Water is dripping constantly from the rag that you have wrapped around the pin hole in the water pipe. Let's see how easy it is to fix that dripping and give you peace of mind. With some of the fantastic improvements in plumbing fittings in the last few years, plumbing repair has been made very simple.

Many leaks are caused by just a couple of things. The pin hole in the copper pipe that is caused by pitting inside the pipe. Usually this is caused by poor water quality. The inside of the pipe flakes off to cause a hole inside the pipe that eventually gets through to the outside. These often are given away by the green spot that usually is seen on the outside of the copper pipe first. This is caused by mineral left by the water evaporating off of the surface of the pipe. So in all reality there is a leak before there is a leak. The other main problem is the joining of two dissimilar types of pipes. Copper and PVC or Copper and Pex are two examples. The expansion rate of the two different types of materials is very different. This causes friction and constant movement where the two meet. This movement eventually will cause enough of a gap to allow the water to leak out.

Until recently there where many redneck fixes out there most involving garden hoses, inner tubes, hose clamps, epoxy, and many other creative fixes. I have seen way too many to describe all of them. Now there is a great way to fix those leaks with a simple push fitting. The new design of the push fitting allows for the pipe to be cut at the hole and then a coupling just pushed onto the pipe to fix the leak. The hardest part of the whole process is to get the pipe cut neatly. The same fitting can also be used to replace those pesky plastic to copper unions that always seem to give trouble. Joining different types of piping is no longer a problem.

By doing a quick search for push fitting you can find a number of different suppliers of this type of fitting. I have used a number of different ones and they all seem to work well. My preference is the brass types as they seem to be much more rugged in construction. The price of those fittings also reflects that. The most common that I have seen and used are the Sharkbite Brand. These are very good, are sold in many plumbing supply houses, and in Home Depot Stores. Other companies include Watts, Probite, Tectite, and Speedfit. I'm sure that I have left some out. These are some that I am familiar with and have used.

Bottom line is that it is now very easy for even a desk jockey to fix his own pipes. Go by the closet home improvement store on your way home. Pick up some of these fittings and impress the wife with talents that she did not know you had. You may even get brave and do that small plumbing project that she has been begging for. Now you can use these fittings to cut into that water line to run that new outside faucet or hookup that water filter yourself. With the push type fitting plumbing has been made easy enough for anyone to be able to do it.

PVC Free and Tweedle Dee - The Big Bogus PVC Lie

2010-08-23T08:09:00.000-07:00

PVC Free and Tweedle Dee - The Big Bogus PVC Lie
Recently websites and documents have been circulating stating that PVC is "one of the most hazardous consumer products ever created" and should be taken out of all commercial carpets. According to some, they can cause cancer and harm to the immune and reproductive systems. Well, if we are going to be honest, so can breathing air in New York City, sex with an unprotected partner and grilling meats outside but I can't find many industry's dedicated to eliminating sex in America or ending the good 'ol backyard BBQ. I'll take mine medium rare please.

Certain manufacturers looking for less costly and often less durable and less sustainable forms of backing materials have been exploiting these claims for their financial gain and playing on the fears of unsuspecting, and often uniformed, architects, designers and building owners. Before you rip the PVC pipes out of your house that runs the water to your tap or you pull the IV from your arm that runs blood from the PVC bag next time you are in the hospital, here are some things to consider.

The US Green Building Council appointed a special task force of materials experts to perform an exhaustive four-year study regarding the safety and health implications of the use of PVC as a building product. The task force concluded that there is no credible evidence that would support excluding PVC in favor of alternative materials. In fact, the task force warns against creating any credits that could steer decision makers towards alternative materials that may have worse environmental impacts. Particularly, new backings that might last 1/2 the length of time on the floor or that has never been studied as long as vinyl has been. PVC is one of the most widely used products in construction, from roofs, piping, flooring, wall covering and many other products and there is NO substantiated claims of negative health effects after over 40 + years in our built environments.

Now, on the other hand, the government actually lists 228 items on its cancer causing list with items ranging from the sun, UVR's in tanning beds, wood dust in saw mills, exposure to X-radiation and gamma-radiation such as bone, chest and dental X-rays to things like MeIQ, MeIQx, and PhIP which are heterocyclic amine compounds that are formed when meats and eggs are cooked or grilled at high temperatures. These compounds are also found in cigarette smoke and, oh yeah, they cause cancer too. Then there is lead that makes batteries and Cobalt Sulfate which is used in electroplating, as coloring agents for ceramics, and as drying agents in inks and paints, and of course Diazoaminobenzene, a chemical used as an intermediate in the production of dyes and to promote adhesion of natural rubber to steel which is said to be listed as, "reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen," whatever that means. The list goes on and on and yet, vinyl in commercial carpet is not on that list. So why the hype and fear over PVC?

In this industry experts opinion there are 3 major factors contributing to this manifestation of knee jerk reaction. First, it's about love. Seriously, a legitimately caring groups of people who have seen the damage that certain chemicals have done to human health over the years are really scared for our health and welfare and are trying to do the right thing. I'm truly glad these groups of people exist. Unfortunately, these folks stopped listening with both ears to the all data on vinyl products in commercial carpet and have jumped off the PVC ledge a little too early. They are now trying to throw the baby out with the bath water. Or in this case, the baby toys out with the carpet tile backing.

Second, fear is easy to exploit. I think it started with the cave man and fire but it's a sales fact. Certain manufacturers have decided to make carpet backing using other compounds that those same caring public watchdogs don't know about yet and have no long term test data with any history to analyze. So the watchdogs would rather attack with partial information what they think they know versus what they really don't know. These manufacturers are using the term PVC free as a scare tactic and positioning tool like Kryptonite is to superman. For all we know, the substitute materials these manufacturers are using might make 3 packs of cigarettes a day look like a post modern health diet. These new materials are less than a decade old, some less than 5 years old and have yet to be studied or proven to even perform more than 6 years on the floor, unlike vinyl, which has been shown to perform perfectly for over 4 decades on the floor without any problems.

And third, it is a way to take our eye off the fact that PVC is in every car we drive, it is in every office we encounter, in every hospital we visit, every school we send our children to and in every restaurant we dine at while sipping Chardonnay and munching on charred beef. For some odd human reason attacking PVC in commercial carpet makes some designers feel good during the day so they can go home at night and grab their PVC computer products and type on Facebook about the successful day they had ridding the world of the evil toxin PVC.

So you tell me, PVC Free, Tweedle Dee or Tweedle Dumb? Do you really want the hat with the propeller on top? I'll go with the facts and data saying PVC is the most sustainable and fully recyclable product available and then head to the beach for some sunshine and carcinogens. Call me crazy, but I like the beach in the summer and vinyl-backed carpet in my office. Now chill out, summer's coming and it's time to break out the BBQ!

Bill Guandolo is a commercial real estate industry veteran with experience in sustainability, Sick Building Syndrome, LEED, Indoor Air Quality issues, flooring materials, manufacturing, marketing, branding and sales. Mr. Guandolo was President and CEO of ATP, Incorporated, a hybrid satellite communications that worked in development with customers like Motorola, Square D and others.

He has studied Edward Demming and his quality process, Total Quality Management, Six Sigma and removing variance from processes to improve quality and reduce cost. Mr. Guandolo has been involved in the US Green Building Council since 1996 and has been studying total sustainability and green initiatives for over 13 years and understands how there is a vital link between economic, social and environmental goals to achieve true sustainability.

His experiences inside operations of the largest commercial manufacturers in the world give him a unique perspective regarding environmentally preferable processes in manufacturing, Cradle to cradle operations and green initiatives. Mr. Guandolo has an undergraduate degree and North Carolina State University and advanced study and University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Bell School of Leadership. Currently Mr. Guandolo is President of Dolo LLC and is acting Vice President of sales for Tandus Inc. Visit to - Fitting Pipes website

BPA, PVC and Phthalate Free Nuby Baby Product Guide

2010-08-02T05:14:00.000-07:00

BPA, PVC and Phthalate Free Nuby Baby Product Guide

Are you worried about that Nuby cup your baby is drinking from? Take a minute to review the following list of safe Nuby options before you throw it out in a panic. Nuby's naming system can be confusing, but educating yourself on what's what will help you avoid toxic plastic. I've confirmed with Nuby which products are free of bisphenol-a and phthalates. They informed me that all of their products are PVC free as well.
Fitting Pipe Tips and Guide - Pvc Pipes and Fittings - Plumber

Nuby makes hundreds of products, so this list is not comprehensive, but it will give you a great foundation for providing your children with safer feeding options.

Nuby Bottles:

7 oz 3-Stage Standard Neck Bottle w/ handles and soft silicone spout included
11 oz 3-Stage Standard Neck Bottle w/ handles and soft silicone spout included
10 oz Tinted Bottles With Bottles with Non-Drip Nipples (3 pack)

Nuby Sippy Cups:

Easy Grip 10 oz No-Spill Sipper with Soft Silicone Spout (also called the Gripper Cup)
Easy Grip 10 oz No-Spill Sports Sipper
Insulated 9 oz Cup with Flip-It Top
10 oz Two Handle Cup with Soft Silicone Spout (also called 2 Handle No-spill 10 oz Cup)
14 oz Tinted Flip-It Leak-proof Straw Cup (also called the 14 oz Sport Sipper)
12 oz No-spill Mega Sipper With Fat Flip-It Straw (also called 12 oz Mega Sipper, as well as, 12 oz No-spill Flip-it Straw Cup)
12 oz No-Spill Sport Sipper (also called 12 oz No-spill Gripper, or Easy Grip Sport Sipper)
9 oz Printed Insulated No-spill Cup with Silicone Spout 2 Pack
9oz No-spill Printed Cup with Silicone Spout 2 pack
9oz No-Spill Printed Cup with Flip-it Straw
Insulated 9 oz Printed Cup with Flip-It Straw
11oz Insulated Magic Motion Flip-it Cup
9oz Insulated No-spill Cup with Flip-it Cap 2 Pack

All Nuby Flip-it Cap Sippys and Flip-it Straw Cups do contain some BPA in the flip-it cover. The liquid does not come in contact with the flip-it cover, so I would still recommend them as a good option. Use your own discretion when purchasing. http://www.articlesbase.com/tools-and-equipment-articles/fitting-pipe-tips-and-guide-pvc-pipes-and-fittings-plumbers-best-friend-2930195.html

Nuby Teethers:

Nuby Nibbler
Jiggle Giggle Butterfly and Cow Cool Bite Vibrating teethers
Icy Bite teether
Ice Gel Teether Keys on a Ring
Bug-A-Loop Teether
Kool Soother Teethers
Jiggle Giggle Vibrating Teethers (all styles)
Fun Teethers (all styles)
Cool-Sicles Teethers (all styles)
Pur Icy Bite Teethers (triangle shape)

Nuby Dishes and Utensils:

Soft Edge Hot Safe Feeding Spoons 3 Pack
Spoon and Fork Set (2 each) with Easy Grip
Wacky Ware Spoon and Fork with Soft Handle
Wacky Ware Microwaveable Bowl with Lid
Fun Feeding Spoons with Toys and Sounds
Snack Cup and Spoon
All Nuby Wash or Toss Dishes
Powdered Formula Dispenser
How to Fittings Pipe

So after all the hours and hours of research, Nuby offers quite a few safer feeding alternatives. The company has also been completely open and honest about the materials used in their whole line of Pipe Fittings products.

How To Solder Copper Pipe Without Flame

2010-07-29T02:47:00.000-07:00

How To Solder Copper Pipe Without Flame

Demonstration video for Just For Copper solderless copper bonding. This unique product does the same job as hot soldering but without the hazards of using a blow torch. http://www.solderlesscopperbonding.com

Disadvantages of UPVC Windows

2010-07-15T11:13:00.001-07:00

Disadvantages of UPVC Windows

The argument rages on as to whether UPVC windows or replacement windows are environmentally friendly or not. The process that is required to make PVCs is highly toxic and this in turn leads to toxic by-products. On top of this, the point is made that the biggest problem with regard to UPVC windows is their disposal at the end of their useful life - which seems to range between 10 and 30 years. Some say that PVC is very easy to recycle but others counter by pointing out that in practice very few PVC windows are recycled because of the difficulty in separating the component parts. Neither can it be incinerated because of it's composition.

UPVC windows discolour! Some go yellow and while this is bad enough, others go a sort of pink! There are various reasons put forward for this discolouring problem, but without going into too much unnecessary detail as to the cause, the remedies are few. You can paint the windows, but isn't the lack of need for painting one of the main reasons you wanted UPVC windows in the first place?

Very bad weather or severe extremes of weather can cause cracking, expanding or warping to your double glazing, PVC windows.

PVC windows are not that flexible in design or in execution - this can hamper the creative artist in you when you are designing your rooms!

PVC windows are simply not as pleasant on the eye as traditional windows. Again this is a claim that is hotly disputed by the PVC fan club. In many case the argument is dependent on what type of building are the windows going into. If they are being inserted into a new build, modern structure that allows for the wide, bulkier window frame that PVC windows by necessity provide, then they will look well. However if you are putting them into your turn of the century (19th to the 20th century that is), attractive brick, terraced residence, maybe they won't fit in quite so brilliantly.

Once you have fitted UPVC windows, they cannot be easily taken apart if they are in need of repair. By this we do not mean simply changing a pane of glass, rather more structural repairs. This can make them more expensive to maintain, as against a traditional window, which a regular carpenter or handyman will have a go at.

So there you go - food for thought if you are thinking about dumping those timber windows on the woodpile and investing in some shiny, spanking new PVC ones.

PVC Architectural Brackets and Decorative Corbels

2010-06-23T06:54:00.000-07:00

PVC Architectural Brackets and Decorative Corbels

Many styles of architecture have utilized the architectural bracket or corbel in its design. The colonial style of architecture is famous for dentil work and highly decorative corbels. The Victorian style made use of decorative brackets with lots of flair. The craftsman style of architecture popularized again architectural detail in its use of decorative supports in the eves and overhangs. More modern architecture, however, during the late 90s and early 21st century has take a more modest and economical approach to architecture, relying more heavily on functionality and efficiency.

Lately, however, with the downturn in the housing market, the buyers market has brought architectural detail back into architecture. Builders competing with one another for potential home buyers have had to enhance curb appeal to attract interest. With the advent of no rot materials such as AZEK and Versatex, PVC brackets have become popularized in the industry. Decorative PVC brackets, unlike wood, are designed to last a lifetime and never need replacement. They can be custom fabricated from manufacturers and are readily available with quick turnarounds.

Architectural PVC Brackets are typically made using a laminating technique. Sometimes they are hollowed out to allow for dead wood installation from the sides. Other times they are made solid and can be mounted with a construction adhesive or with the use of lag screws. AZEK brackets are typically non-structural due to the thermal nature of the PVC and should not be used for structural overhangs without additional support.

PVC brackets are more similar to foam, or urethane brackets, in the sense that they are designed to last forever, but act non-structurally. The advantage to PVC over foam is in customization. PVC brackets do not require expensive moulding techniques and can be hand crafted with relative ease.

Using PVC Pipe - Help Guide Information

2010-06-13T03:30:00.000-07:00

Using PVC Pipe - Help Guide Information

PVC Pipe is a versatile form of pipe which has revolutionized modern plumbing. PVC can be used for drainage, waste water or vent piping but is not suitable for water supply, in which case, copper pipe is most commonly used.

PVC stands for Polyvinyl Chloride which is a compound designed for strength and durability. It is resistant to corrosive materials found in cleaners and other household chemicals and also to the extremes of hard and soft water. It resists leakage and does not conduct electricity. For these reasons it is the common choice for modern plumbing and for replacing old plumbing.

There are many different sizes, lengths and diameters of PVC pope available. Pipes are designed to fit within each other and fixed with solvent cement. PVC pipes are measured by their inside diameter.A coupling is the term used to describe a join between two pieces of PVC pipe, in particular when they are joined with no angle. Joins can be of varying degrees however, typically they are 22, 45, 60 and 90 degrees. An angled join is generally called an elbow.

Transition pieces are available to allow connection with other types of piping. A threaded adapter is available which will allow joining between threaded galvanized pipe. For connecting to non threaded metal pipe a gasket can be used which threads over both ends of pipe and is then secured in place using stainless steel clamps.

When fitting PVC pipes be sure to wear protective eye wear and a mask. Cut using a PVC hand saw and then use a deburring tool or the tip of the saw to remove any rough edges, especially from the inside of the pipe. Dry fit the pipes together to ensure that they are a good fit before applying solvent cement. Mark out exactly where the pipes will be joined together as once you apply the cement you will need to act quickly.

Joining PVC pipes is a two step process. Firstly a primer is applied, which cleans the area and begins a chemical reaction with the pipe. Spread primer on the outside of the pipe and on the inside of the fitting. Next spread cement over the same areas of the piping. Once the cement has been applied insert the pipe and hold for a few seconds for the cement to set. Always work in a well ventilated area and wear a face mask, as these chemicals can have quite a powerful odor. Run some water through the join to ensure that a good seal has been made.

PVC pipe is extremely versatile and hardy and the creative home improver can find many projects involving its use, including bird feeders, storage, hanging planters and more.

Pvc Pipes and Fittings Products

Exterior Shutters - Wood, Vinyl, Fiberglass, PVC, and Composite

2010-06-07T22:35:00.001-07:00

Exterior Shutters - Wood, Vinyl, Fiberglass, PVC, and Composite
Many people ask me all the time: "What kind of material should my exterior shutters be made from?" And I always like to discuss the pros and cons of different materials that they have to offer. these can involve cost, functionality, longevity, and more. Exterior shutters have evolved over time from wood to vinyl, as well as to other alternatives such as fiberglass, PVC, and composites so there are a variety of choices to sort through. This article will discuss the pros and cons of many exterior shutter styles to help you pick out the exterior shutter material that will best meet your needs.

Wood Exterior Shutters: Wood exterior shutters offer many advantages such as the look of wood, functionality, and paintability to match your home. They are medium in the price range compared to some of the alternatives. One of the main advantages to wooden exterior shutters is that they are extremely popular and easy to come by. They can be hinged to the home to give it a more decorative look as well as to provide function. The disadvantage is that they will eventually rot even if maintained. Expansion, sun, and water will eventually cause most wood shutters to begin rotting within about a five year period. To prolong the life of a wooden exterior shutter, try to place in the shade and avoid darker colors which will fuel expansion and deterioration. You should also repaint your wooden exterior shutters every few years to counter cracking and splitting which exposes the shutters to the elements.

Vinyl Exterior Shutters: Vinyl is by far the most affordable choice in shutters. Many vinyl exterior shutters, however, are made from moulds which means they are often only available in set lengths. This can sometimes limit their use on a home with custom sized windows. They are also sometimes referred to as "hollow back shutters" due to their hollow nature. This prevents them from being installed on hinges and requires them to be pinned down in all corners to avoid warping. They are a cost-effective way to add color to a home, however, some home owners do not like the shiny plastic look that accompanies vinyl.

PVC Exterior Shutters: These are an expensive upgrade over vinyl. They are made from solid material, which offers functionality and hingeability. They can also be painted and most cellular PVC materials have a matted finish which gives them the look and feel of wood. They are usually custom built by hand much the same way as you would build a wooden exterior shutter, however, they can easily cost twice as much. They are, however, designed to last a lifetime which means they will not have to be replaced like a wooden shutter alternative. You will, however, have to avoid painting them dark colors, unless they are thermally stabilized with internal rods. Check to make sure that your PVC exterior shutters are thermally stabilized before purchasing them if you plan to paint them dark colors.

Fiberglass Exterior Shutters: Fiberglass is an excellent choice. Although very costly, they are light in weight, forever lasting, and not subject to the same thermal expansion of a PVC shutter. They can also be painted and provide function.

Composite Exterior Shutters: Composite wood shutters are made from recycled cedar wood dust and treated with zinc borate to resist rotting. The average lifespan of a composite wood exterior shutter is about twice that of a regular wooden exterior shutters. The cost, however, tends to be reasonably comparable in price to that of wood and usually much less than that of PVC or Fiberglass. Compared to vinyl, composite wood exterior shutters are more expensive, but offer the look of wood and more customization since they are generally built by hand.

Creating Unique Soap Molds out of PVC Pipe

2010-05-31T10:25:00.000-07:00

Creating Unique Soap Molds out of PVC Pipe

Making unique soap molds out of everyday items is a cinch once you start thinking outside the box. There is definitely no need to buy professional soap making molds when fun and inexpensive alternatives are readily available.One of my favorite ideas for creating unique soap molds is forming circular soap out of PVC pipe. Not only does it create a great looking finished product, but this soap molding method is also extremely simple to put into practice.Pvc Pipes and Fittings Products

Creating a PVC soap mold requires 5 pieces of equipment which includes: PVC pipe, a cutting board, a funnel, a ladle and freezer paper.

So what are the steps? Once you are ready to pour your initial soap into its mold, place the PVC pipe vertically on the end of the cutting board. Be sure that all the edges are firmly placed against the wood and held there with a decent amount of force. After all, you wouldn't want soap running out of the bottom!Now place the funnel into the pipes opening for easy pouring. Make absolute sure that you use a funnel made out of silicon or stainless steel as this early stage soap will be extremely caustic and harsh. Never use plastic equipment of any sort. Once the soap has time to cure, the ph levels will drastically change resulting in a mild skin care cleanser, but for now, you need to be a little bit careful.

Next, begin transferring the soap from the pot into the PVC pipe using your ladle. Again, you need to make sure that the scooper is also made out of the proper materials. Never fill the PVC pipe all the way to the brim as the soap will expand during the curing process. I personally recommend that you leave about 3 inches at the top.Cover the opened area of the PVC pipe with freezer paper using rubber bands to secure it in place. This will help keep the heat trapped inside the mold.

Now it's time to insulate your soap even further. Take old blankets or large towels that you don't mind ruining and thoroughly wrap the outside of the mold. Be as liberal as possible. I recommend using about 7 - 10 towels or 4 blankets. It's important that the heat caused by the soap making reaction dissipates as slowly as possible in order for proper curing to occur.

Patience is crucial for the cold process soap maker as you must now wait about 72 hours for the soap to harden. Keep in mind that once it's hard, it is still too caustic to use as it is not fully cured yet.Slip the soap out of the PVC pipe and Cut it into bars of approximate even width. If you find that removing the soap from this unique soap mold is difficult, you can either use a jar to help push it out or place the soap in the freezer to make it contract.

Lay your new bars on a rack to cure allowing air to circulate around it. Be sure to flip them every few days. After 6 - 8 weeks, you are ready to test PH levels and use your new all natural skin care product! Pvc Pipes and Fittings Products

Why PVC Pool Liners Are the Best Thing Since Sliced Bread

2010-05-25T20:31:00.000-07:00

Why PVC Pool Liners Are the Best Thing Since Sliced Bread!
The history of swimming pool construction can be divided into two distinct eras - Before PVC liners and Post PVC liners. Before PVC liners were invented pools had to be built using heavy reinforced concrete construction. The introduction of PVC liners allowed the development of modular panel pools and concrete block wall pools that are not as rigid, stiff and costly as the concrete tank type pools that had to be designed so that they never cracked at all, just to ensure that they did not leak.

Before PVC liners there were only two methods used by professional pool builders to build swimming pools:-

By construction of a very heavy thick high reinforced concrete tank using formwork and other special concrete techniques
By construction of a quite thin reinforced concrete tank using very high strength "Gunnite" concrete that is sprayed onto timber forms using high pressure compressed air.

Neither of these techniques were particularly suitable for private pools because both types should be designed by a professional engineer who will require the information from a full scale site investigation. Highly skilled site operatives and heavy complex equipment is also required and so this type of pool is also very expensive!

To reduce cost many pools were also built using concrete block walls that were constructed on a concrete base slab that also formed the floor of the pool. Builder used various techniques to try and ensure that such pools did not leak. Some of them held water and most did not – and if they did – not for long!

Many different materials were used to try and waterproof the pool walls (fibreglass, bituminous tanking, chemical membranes etc.) but all of them work for a while until a slight structural movement takes place (often caused by temperature change) that cracks the waterproof lining. The pool then starts to leak. The saturation of the external ground can then cause more structural movement that increases the stress on the waterproofing and causes the pool to leak even more - until it gets so bad that the pool becomes useless.

Fibre-glass pools were also available but they have always been looked on as a second class cousin to concrete pools because the fibre-glass pool industry has never really developed a high performance product that is equivalent to the yacht industry where international standards for fibre glass boats have been imposed by organisations like Lloyds. There is no doubt that very high quality fibreglass pools can work well - but it is very difficult to produce this quality and it requires a large temperature and humidity controlled workshop.

The Big Secret of PVC liner pools is that the structure into which they are put has to be stable enough to be absolutely certain that structural failure will not occur but not totally rigid . The important result is that any cracking caused by small structural movements does not lead to leaks because the water proofing is provided by the PVC liner and not the pool structure itself – this is a massive advantage. This allows the concrete block wall pools to hold water in a way that they have before!

The invention of the PVC liner has been the most significant thing that has ever happened in the global swimming pool industry. PVC liners are now produced that are suitable for every type of pool - from the heaviest used commercial pools - to the pools with the highest environmental loading from ice, snow and the sun.It could be argued that any pool builder that is not using PVC liners is providing his Clients with a sub-standard product simply because of the leak-proofing and durability of this amazing product.

The only downside of PVC liner technology is that manufacturers of the modular panel pools have jumped onto the pool construction bandwagon and produce an array of panel pool products that are fine for above ground pools - but are entirely unsuitable for buried in-ground pools, for instance, in the very variable ground conditions of south France where they are now frequently used.PVC liner pools are sadly getting a bad reputation because their use has allowed the cowboys into the pool industry. Remember - blame the cowboy for any problems that you have with your PVC liner pool - not the liner itself.

Will Witt is a professional civil engineer and the co-owner of Bluepools SARL. Blue pools is a swimming pool installation company that specializes in the design and installation of luxury, bespoke swimming pools and has been doing so in France for the past 5 years.

Why PVC Pool Liners Are the Best Thing

2010-05-14T20:13:00.000-07:00

Why PVC Pool Liners Are the Best Thing Since Sliced Bread

The history of swimming pool construction can be divided into two distinct eras - Before PVC liners and Post PVC liners. Before PVC liners were invented pools had to be built using heavy reinforced concrete construction. The introduction of PVC liners allowed the development of modular panel pools and concrete block wall pools that are not as rigid, stiff and costly as the concrete tank type pools that had to be designed so that they never cracked at all, just to ensure that they did not leak.

Before PVC liners there were only two methods used by professional pool builders to build swimming pools:-

By construction of a very heavy thick high reinforced concrete tank using formwork and other special concrete techniques
By construction of a quite thin reinforced concrete tank using very high strength "Gunnite" concrete that is sprayed onto timber forms using high pressure compressed air.

Neither of these techniques were particularly suitable for private pools because both types should be designed by a professional engineer who will require the information from a full scale site investigation. Highly skilled site operatives and heavy complex equipment is also required and so this type of pool is also very expensive!

To reduce cost many pools were also built using concrete block walls that were constructed on a concrete base slab that also formed the floor of the pool. Builder used various techniques to try and ensure that such pools did not leak. Some of them held water and most did not – and if they did – not for long!

Many different materials were used to try and waterproof the pool walls (fibreglass, bituminous tanking, chemical membranes etc.) but all of them work for a while until a slight structural movement takes place (often caused by temperature change) that cracks the waterproof lining. The pool then starts to leak. The saturation of the external ground can then cause more structural movement that increases the stress on the waterproofing and causes the pool to leak even more - until it gets so bad that the pool becomes useless.

Fibre-glass pools were also available but they have always been looked on as a second class cousin to concrete pools because the fibre-glass pool industry has never really developed a high performance product that is equivalent to the yacht industry where international standards for fibreglass boats have been imposed by organisations like Lloyds. There is no doubt that very high quality fibreglass pools can work well - but it is very difficult to produce this quality and it requires a large temperature and humidity controlled workshop.

The Big Secret of PVC liner pools is that the structure into which they are put has to be stable enough to be absolutely certain that structural failure will not occur but not totally rigid . The important result is that any cracking caused by small structural movements does not lead to leaks because the water proofing is provided by the PVC liner and not the pool structure itself – this is a massive advantage. This allows the concrete block wall pools to hold water in a way that they have before!

The invention of the PVC liner has been the most significant thing that has ever happened in the global swimming pool industry. PVC liners are now produced that are suitable for every type of pool - from the heaviest used commercial pools - to the pools with the highest environmental loading from ice, snow and the sun.

It could be argued that any pool builder that is not using PVC liners is providing his Clients with a sub-standard product simply because of the leak-proofing and durability of this amazing product.

The only downside of PVC liner technology is that manufacturers of the modular panel pools have jumped onto the pool construction bandwagon and produce an array of panel pool products that are fine for above ground pools - but are entirely unsuitable for buried in-ground pools, for instance, in the very variable ground conditions of south France where they are now frequently used.

PVC liner pools are sadly getting a bad reputation because their use has allowed the cowboys into the pool industry. Remember - blame the cowboy for any problems that you have with your PVC liner pool - not the liner itself.

Will Witt is a professional civil engineer and the co-owner of Bluepools SARL. Bluepools is a swimming pool installation company that specializes in the design and installation of luxury, bespoke swimming pools and has been doing so in France for the past 5 years.

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Home Repair Tips For Joining Pipe and Tubing

2010-04-25T04:30:00.001-07:00

Home Repair Tips For Joining Pipe and Tubing
There are four basic ways to join pipe and tubing:

• Pouring lead in the joint

• Screwing together threaded pipes and fittings

• Soldering

• Gluing or cementing

At one time plumbers sealed the joints of black iron pipe with hot, liquid lead. Today, however, sewer pipes are joined with clamps and neoprene gaskets.

Most galvanized pipes are threaded. They can be screwed together without any preparation, but the joint will leak until it rusts shut. It is also very dif

ficult to turn the pipes. Teflon tape makes the job easier and seals the joints as well. Be careful though. Teflon makes the threads turn so easily that you can tighten them too far and break the pipe.

Copper tubing is usually soldered. Clean the joint with steel wool or sandpaper. Do not touch the joint after cleaning. Your fingers may leave some grease that will repel the solder. Apply a light coat of noncorrosive soldering flux to the ends to be joined, both inside and out. Assemble the joint exactly as it will be when finished.

Now light a propane torch. When the flame settles down, move the torch so the blue tip of the flame is 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the joint. Heat the entire joint and along the tubing for 2 to 3 inches in all directions. Watch where you're pointing the flame. Heat until the flux begins to boil. Do not overheat.

Remove the torch and touch the solder to the end of the joint. If the joint is clean and fluxed and has been heated to the right temperature, the solder will melt immediately and flow through the whole joint. Do not move the joint until the solder has cooled. If the joint is too hot, the solder will not stick. In this case, use pliers to pull the flame settles down, move the torch so the blue tip of the flame is 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the joint. Heat the entire joint and along the tubing for 2 to 3 inches in all directions. Watch where you're pointing the flame. Heat until the flux begins to boil. Do not overheat.

Remove the torch and touch the solder to the end of the joint. If the joint is clean and fluxed and has been heated to the right temperature, the solder will melt immediately and flow through the whole joint. Do not move the joint until the solder has cooled. If the joint is too hot, the solder will not stick. In this case, use pliers to pull the hot joint apart. Let it cool, clean it, flux it, and start again.

It is impossible to solder a wet joint. Even a drop of water is too much. If you've turned off all the valves and opened every faucet, and water still trickles through the line, stuff some bread uphill in the line. This will stop the water long enough to solder. Later when you turn on the water, the bread will dissolve and be flushed out the nearest faucet.

Plastic pipe joints are the same as copper tubing joints except they are cemented instead of being soldered. After cutting and cleaning the edges with a file and knife, brush cement around the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Plastic cement is really a solvent that dissolves the plastic surface. When it evaporates (in about 10 seconds) the joint is fused. This doesn't give you much time to position the joint and wipe away the excess cement. After plastic pipe has been glued, there is no way to take it apart except by cutting.

Use plastic cement with great care. Avoid breathing the fumes and keep it away from eyes, mouth and skin.

Before soldering copper tubing, clean the ends to be joined. Use sandpaper, steel wool, or a wire brush. Then with your finger or with an old toothbrush apply flux to the surfaces being joined. Use a light coat, but cover the area completely.

The Copper Re-Piping Guide Help

2010-04-22T07:40:00.001-07:00

The Copper Re-Piping Guide Help
There are many reasons why you may be looking into copper re-piping for your home, but perhaps the main reason is that you may have found a leak in your home or your water pressure has dropped drastically. Either way, once you have decided to do a copper re pipe job in your home, you will need to decide on what is the best repair for you to do. This simple copper Repiping guide should walk you through some of the basics to get you going in the right direction.

Copper Re piping is used to replace existing pipes that may have rusted or deteriorated over the years. Most homes built over 25 years ago were piped with iron pipes, or galvanized pipes, which were covered with a zinc coating. Over a period of time the zinc on the pipes would break down causing the pipes to rust. Once this process happens it becomes necessary to change to copper repipe. Copper Re-piping is an extensive job and should not be taken lightly. If you choose to do the repairs yourself, then you will need to know some of the basics to get you started. When starting your copper repipe job you will want to make sure that you know where the existing pipe pattern is and make the new copper pipe match the old piping. You will want to run the copper piping right along side of the existing pipes as this will make the whole copper Repiping much easier. Make sure you have the right amount of fittings that you will need such as elbows, adapters and what fitting need to be threaded or not.

You will want to clean the fittings and the pipe, then you will need to use a flux paste, which is an acid that cleans the copper making it solder able. If you are not familiar with soldering then you may want to check with some local companies to see if they can give you some pointers or consult a plumbing company. Cleaning is the most important part before soldering. Once you have cut the existing pipes and solder in the new copper Re piping, your job is complete. Double check, to assure that you have the cold water connected to the cold water pipe and the hot water connected to the hot water pipe.

With how extensive copper Re-piping can be, it may be wise to leave it to the professionals. There are many plumbing companies out there to choose from. You will want to call several and have them come over to assess the problems and give you a quote. It is always best to get several quotes and check the quality or work from the companies you are considering. You can also check with the Better business Bureau to see if the company has had any complaints filed. It does not have to cost a small fortune to do a copper re pipe job in your home. Just weigh the options and the pro’s and con’s of doing the job on your own or hiring someone to do the job.

How to Fix PVC Eaves Boarding

2010-03-11T21:24:00.000-08:00

How to Fix PVC Eaves Boarding
By Andrew Karundu

Eaves are the part of the roof that overhangs from the building wall line average five hundred millimeters wide. This area is covered by a boarding of timber or PVC tongue and groove, gypsum or weather proof materials. If this part of the building is not covered or is damaged due to weather, it could lead to rodents or birds nesting in the open ceiling. Its important to cover since rodents are a health hazard and birds droppings could damage the ceiling space.

When a developer intends to fix the PVC eaves boarding, measure the area to be worked on. Cut the pieces of timber to form the mesh like supports called brandering. This is done by nailing timber battens along the fascia boards and wall lengths. After nailing the battens lengthwise, cut smaller pieces and nail along the width of the eaves. This timber battens should be fixed at intervals of six hundred millimeters center to center distances.

Prepare the area to fix PVC eaves boarding by positioning a gauze wire to stop crawling insects from entering the ceiling. Again cut the PVC to be fitted the size of the eaves width. This are fixed by inserting into each groove provided on the strips. Nail the first piece on the brandering and then insert the next into the groove and nail the edges to keep, firm. Continue this process until the whole length of the eaves is finished. Clean off any dirt marks.

Once the PVC eaves boarding is fixed by joining the pieces, nail timber quadrants on the edges. This is done by nailing them along the fascia boards and wall line to hide the joints. Ensure that they are nailed straight and apply under coat. Apply three coats of gloss paint on the timber quadrants and fascia boards to protect from extreme weather. Again use some thinner to clean off any paint marks appearing on the PVC eaves to give a good finish.

Home Repair Tips For Joining Pipe and Tubing

2010-03-11T21:20:00.002-08:00

Home Repair Tips For Joining Pipe and Tubing
There are four basic ways to join pipe and tubing:

• Pouring lead in the joint
• Screwing together threaded pipes and fittings
• Soldering
• Gluing or cementing

At one time plumbers sealed the joints of black iron pipe with hot, liquid lead. Today, however, sewer pipes are joined with clamps and neoprene gaskets.

Most galvanized pipes are threaded. They can be screwed together without any preparation, but the joint will leak until it rusts shut. It is also very difficult to turn the pipes. Teflon tape makes the job easier and seals the joints as well. Be careful though. Teflon makes the threads turn so easily that you can tighten them too far and break the pipe.

Copper tubing is usually soldered. Clean the joint with steel wool or sandpaper. Do not touch the joint after cleaning. Your fingers may leave some grease that will repel the solder. Apply a light coat of noncorrosive soldering flux to the ends to be joined, both inside and out. Assemble the joint exactly as it will be when finished.Now light a propane torch. When the flame settles down, move the torch so the blue tip of the flame is 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the joint. Heat the entire joint and along the tubing for 2 to 3 inches in all directions. Watch where you're pointing the flame. Heat until the flux begins to boil. Do not overheat.

Remove the torch and touch the solder to the end of the joint. If the joint is clean and fluxed and has been heated to the right temperature, the solder will melt immediately and flow through the whole joint. Do not move the joint until the solder has cooled. If the joint is too hot, the solder will not stick. In this case, use pliers to pull the flame settles down, move the torch so the blue tip of the flame is 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the joint. Heat the entire joint and along the tubing for 2 to 3 inches in all directions. Watch where you're pointing the flame. Heat until the flux begins to boil. Do not overheat.

Remove the torch and touch the solder to the end of the joint. If the joint is clean and fluxed and has been heated to the right temperature, the solder will melt immediately and flow through the whole joint. Do not move the joint until the solder has cooled. If the joint is too hot, the solder will not stick. In this case, use pliers to pull the hot joint apart. Let it cool, clean it, flux it, and start again.

It is impossible to solder a wet joint. Even a drop of water is too much. If you've turned off all the valves and opened every faucet, and water still trickles through the line, stuff some bread uphill in the line. This will stop the water long enough to solder. Later when you turn on the water, the bread will dissolve and be flushed out the nearest faucet.

Plastic pipe joints are the same as copper tubing joints except they are cemented instead of being soldered. After cutting and cleaning the edges with a file and knife, brush cement around the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Plastic cement is really a solvent that dissolves the plastic surface. When it evaporates (in about 10 seconds) the joint is fused. This doesn't give you much time to position the joint and wipe away the excess cement. After plastic pipe has been glued, there is no way to take it apart except by cutting.

Use plastic cement with great care. Avoid breathing the fumes and keep it away from eyes, mouth and skin.Before soldering copper tubing, clean the ends to be joined. Use sandpaper, steel wool, or a wire brush. Then with your finger or with an old toothbrush apply flux to the surfaces being joined. Use a light coat, but cover the area completely.

Getting Rid of the PVC Plastic That is Polluting Your Home

2010-03-11T21:20:00.001-08:00

Getting Rid of the PVC Plastic That is Polluting Your Home
PVC, polyvinyl chloride, must be the most common item in our lives. There’s the plastic bag from the supermarket, plastic bottles for detergents and shampoos, plastic containers for food and even plastic toys and countless products in the home and office. Unfortunately several environmental agencies and organizations warn there are many negative outcomes that arise from the frequent use of PVCs.

PVC is the second most popular plastic in the world in terms of usage Because of its wide usage the safety of PVC is much to be concerned. PVC is recognized by many environmental watchdog organizations as most dangerous.

PVC is dangerous because of the presence of dioxin. Dioxin is produced when PVC plastic is being burned up in incinerators. This can also happen at home with accidental fires with household stoves, or in vehicles or simply open-air trash burning that occurs, especially in rural areas.

The use of PVC took off in the 1960s and continue its reign as one of the most popular material, replacing metal, glass, ceramics, and woods and other materials which were once popular and less problematic especially to the environment and to our health. Eventually, the use of industrial chlorine was curtailed. However, it appears that the chloral kali industry has increased their production of chlorine-rich manufacturing, especially in parts of Asia and Latin America.

In the late 1960s, the carcinogenicity of vinyl chloride monomer was linked to humans when workers in the polyvinyl chloride polymerization section of a B.F. Goodrich plant near Louisville, Kentucky were diagnosed with liver angiosarcoma, a rare disease. Since then, studies of PVC workers in UK, Australia, Italy and Germany have all associated certain types of occupational cancers with exposure to vinyl chloride. This link has been confirmed by the International Agency for Research on Cancer.

In recent years, the largest use of PVC is in building materials, including doors, walls, cables, window frames, wastewater pipes, vinyl floor, vinyl wallpaper, shower curtains and window blinds. PVC in all its forms continues to be a major part of the average American household.

Though PVCs are no longer found in most industrial settings, they are still used to make everyday consumer goods such as records, credit cards, furniture, folders, binders, pens and toys They are also used in wiring and imitation leather.

Get the Right Water Filters & Shower Heads to Remove Copper & Chlorine

2010-03-11T21:19:00.001-08:00

Get the Right Water Filters & Shower Heads to Remove Copper & Chlorine
Water supply nowadays is constantly contaminated with copper, chlorine and many other chemical substances that are harmful to health. They can lead to many serious diseases that including diseases like typhoid, anaemia, hepatitis, hookworm infection, scabies and polio. The solution lies in minimizing these chemical substances in water supply by using good water & shower filters for copper and chlorine.

The best and most reliable water treatment solution to get clean healthy water for shower is by adopting a good water purification and filtration technology. It will be a wise decision to opt for water filters for shower heads so that we can bathe and shower in clean water that does not irritate our skin or pose any health risks. In fact, scientific researchers from many organizations have found that filtered shower water can improve the health of our skin, making it soft, supple and radiant. Many people with skin problems such as allergy, eczema have even treat their symptoms after using shower filters for copper and chlorine.

As a matter of fact, chemical substances, dusts, oil, bacteria and fungus that are available in water, can penetrate through the skin tissues causing harm to the human body. The contamination of our water supply with chlorine, copper, lead and other chemical substances will exaggerate the penetration of bacteria and damage our body system further. Many companies have successfully invented shower head water filters which can remove the debris and filter the copper and chlorine substances at the same time.

Water filters for shower heads are used to enhance the quality of our water supply in our home. It can be easily installed at the water pipe to filter and purify the water supply. As a result, we can enjoy clean healthy water without hassle every time and without having to worry about copper, chlorine and other chemical substances that are contained in the water supply.

You can really make this smart and intelligent decision by opting for shower filters for copper and chlorine. In today's scenario, it is an essential solution to provide your family with clean shower water. With that, you can be well assured of the safety precaution that you will be giving to your family members from health threatening copper and chlorine contaminants.

While there are many choices for home shower water filter technology in the market, all available in different prices, the reliability always depends on smart selection. It is here that you need to do more research in order to make the best selection for a water filter for shower head.

Flowers and PVC Railings

2010-03-11T21:18:00.002-08:00

Flowers and PVC Railings
If you are searching for a way to add some character and interest to your deck railing, then you will want to consider including box deck flower railings. Adding railings to your deck helps to make it look more complete and professional and due to the fact that decks are used for relaxing, you are sure to want to add some little details to your deck to make it more beautiful. Adding some flower planters on your deck will add a touch of color and interest to your deck to help make you more satisfied with the view.

There are many different materials that you can use to make your box deck flower railing. Vinyl or PVC are wonderful choices due to its durability and ease of use and installation. If you install the PVC or vinyl planter railing correctly, then you will find that there are not sharp edges that you will have to worry about with your children or yourself. This is a wonderful benefit as you are gardening, because your hands will be in and around the box planter railing frequently when you are working with your flowers. PVC offers an additional benefit in that it does not heat up with the sun, which is wonderful when you are gardening on a summer day full of sunshine. The PVC and vinyl will not fade when exposed to the sun for long periods of time either and it is maintenance free. Being waterproof is essential for a planter and both of these materials are waterproof, too. Either of these materials will make a wonderful choice for your box deck flower railing.

Wood is a popular choice for box deck flower railings. It is a traditional choice that offers you wonderful character and warmth. There are many varieties of wood that you can choose for this project and you will enjoy trying to find the one that looks great and will hold up well to the weather. Cedar is a wonderful choice for your box deck flower railing because it is insect and decay resistance and holds up well to water and rain exposure. Using composite wood is another option that you may want to consider. Due to the material that it is made from, it is water, decay, light, splinter, and insect resistant. This makes it an excellent choice for a box deck flower railing.

No matter what size of your home or apartment, you will love the character and beauty that a box deck flower failing can add to your deck. It is easy to make and will give you hours of relaxation and beauty. What could be better than that?

Evaluating PVC For Porch Stairs Railings

2010-03-11T21:18:00.001-08:00

Evaluating PVC For Porch Stairs Railings
Learn the best way of selecting the colors, shapes, materials and varieties for your porch railings, material varies in cost and quality. However you must check the kind of front porch stair you need and you can create and when you start to feel fascinated by the number of deals in materials, shapes and colors. Take the decision of knowing which of these things are those that best suit their lifestyle and the potential for his home.

Your skills and time available for doing the work also play an important roll in planning the front porch stair making.

Let's talk about PVC:

1. An excellent choice is going for the PVC or vinyl porch railing. Advantages of PVC and vinyl porch railings:

2. Security is guaranteed by these facts

3. Protection against slipping.

4. This kind of material doesn't splinter there is not risk of cut by sharp points if is properly fastened

5. PVC offers ultraviolet light resistance, long lasting live and high resistance to climate. Color will be bright for more time, avoiding fading of the material, also PVC keeps cool for more time than other material and you can certainly handle the material without being burnt, so you can see PVC is very good for houses when sun strike very hard during long hour at summer and can facilitate the gardening works.

All In Wood

Another possibility is wood. Wood exceeds any other offer in the market, its classic appearance, its elegance and make it one of the favorite of consumers, designers and architects, among the types of wood, we can speak of cedar, noble, and scented with many advantages. It has a high resistance to insects that act as a natural pest control, still exposed to humidity it keeps its good look and long life.

More Ideas For Your Porch Stairs Railing Design

Composite woods also offer options for front porch stair railings, add the beauty of wood rest the maintenance problems and composite wood products are decay, insect, light, and water resistant and hardly splinter.

Iron is another possibility for creating your front porch railing. Traditional and elegant, iron is pursued as a railing material because of its durability, look and variety of styles, Iron offers some of the nicest decorative effects in the porch railing industry thanks to the advances in the manufacturing industry, malleable and strong, it will remain standing through the toughest weather and abuse.

Aluminum offers high impact resistance, lasting color, and weather-resistance, it can be customized to your preferences or purchased on standard aluminum designs, nowadays aluminum is used to create a touch of modernity and can be combined with glass to reinforce the effect

At last a word for glass, you can use it combined with wood, aluminum and iron. Pieces made of stainless steel, brass, bronze or even stone can match glass and highlight its beauty, glass is an ideal choice for ideal choice for clean lines styles home and to enjoy natural light.

Your house, your life style, your budget and many other details have to be in mind when creating your deck ideas and planning your deck, porch, railing and other important elements for embellishing as well as giving your house extra elements of comfort, security adding in this value to the property: a porch, small or large, can make your house stand out of the others, suggesting an special place according to the main style design.

Evaluating A Home - Water Pipes

2010-03-11T21:17:00.001-08:00

Evaluating A Home - Water Pipes
When evaluating a home you are considering buying, it is easy to get caught up in the visual aspects of the home. Water pipes are just one unseen area you remember to inspect.

Water Pipes – Drip, Drip, Drip
Alright, I’ll admit right away water pipes are not exactly the most glamorous aspect of a home. In fact, water piping in most homes is more than adequate to keep you in hot showers while you live there and take care of all your water needs. If there is a problem with the interior water pipes, however, you are in for a very costly and disruptive experience.

The main issue with water pipes on the interior of a home is their location. It is easy to forget about them because they are primarily hidden behind the walls of the house. While this is good from a visual perspective, it quickly becomes a negative if a pipe starts leaking or, god forbid, actually bursts inside a wall. Leaks lead to rot and mold problems that can effect the health of you family. A burst pipe leads to flooding, new carpets, rebuilt walls and large bills.

When evaluating the water pipes in a home, keep in mind the following issues.

1. Copper – The best piping material for water pipes is copper. It will last forever and is resistant to hard deposit build ups which can impact the amount of water flowing through the pipes. Copper pipes are also the sign of a quality construction effort as they tend to be more expensive than alternatives.

2. PVC – If you see PVC water pipes anywhere other than on the sprinkler system or from the main street line to the house, red flags should wave before your eyes. The presence of PVC piping is an indication of an owner doing the piping themselves, as most construction companies will not use PVC. In a majority of locations, such use of PVC is outright illegal. Do not buy a home with PVC piping in the walls! Ever!

3. Iron Piping – For a long time, iron piping was pretty much the standard in home construction. There is nothing particularly wrong with using such piping with one exception. Iron piping is susceptible to water and will rust over time. If you find this grey, metal piping in the home, find out when it was put in and check for rust. Iron piping should last roughly 30 years without any major problems. If replacements must be made, go with copper.

The pipes moving water around the interior of a home may seem uninteresting. Your attitude, however, will change if one of them bursts in the middle of the night.

Creating Unique Soap Molds out of PVC Pipe

2010-03-11T21:16:00.000-08:00

Creating Unique Soap Molds out of PVC Pipe
Making unique soap molds out of everyday items is a cinch once you start thinking outside the box. There is definitely no need to buy professional soap making molds when fun and inexpensive alternatives are readily available.

One of my favorite ideas for creating unique soap molds is forming circular soap out of PVC pipe. Not only does it create a great looking finished product, but this soap molding method is also extremely simple to put into practice.

Creating a PVC soap mold requires 5 pieces of equipment which includes: PVC pipe, a cutting board, a funnel, a ladle and freezer paper.

So what are the steps? Once you are ready to pour your initial soap into its mold, place the PVC pipe vertically on the end of the cutting board. Be sure that all the edges are firmly placed against the wood and held there with a decent amount of force. After all, you wouldn't want soap running out of the bottom!

Now place the funnel into the pipes opening for easy pouring. Make absolute sure that you use a funnel made out of silicon or stainless steel as this early stage soap will be extremely caustic and harsh. Never use plastic equipment of any sort. Once the soap has time to cure, the ph levels will drastically change resulting in a mild skin care cleanser, but for now, you need to be a little bit careful.

Next, begin transferring the soap from the pot into the PVC pipe using your ladle. Again, you need to make sure that the scooper is also made out of the proper materials. Never fill the PVC pipe all the way to the brim as the soap will expand during the curing process. I personally recommend that you leave about 3 inches at the top.

Cover the opened area of the PVC pipe with freezer paper using rubber bands to secure it in place. This will help keep the heat trapped inside the mold.Now it's time to insulate your soap even further. Take old blankets or large towels that you don't mind ruining and thoroughly wrap the outside of the mold. Be as liberal as possible. I recommend using about 7 - 10 towels or 4 blankets. It's important that the heat caused by the soap making reaction dissipates as slowly as possible in order for proper curing to occur.

Patience is crucial for the cold process soap maker as you must now wait about 72 hours for the soap to harden. Keep in mind that once it's hard, it is still too caustic to use as it is not fully cured yet.

Slip the soap out of the PVC pipe and Cut it into bars of approximate even width. If you find that removing the soap from this unique soap mold is difficult, you can either use a jar to help push it out or place the soap in the freezer to make it contract.Lay your new bars on a rack to cure allowing air to circulate around it. Be sure to flip them every few days. After 6 - 8 weeks, you are ready to test PH levels and use your new all natural skin care product!

CPVC Pipe Installation Tips From a Professional Plumber

2010-03-11T21:15:00.002-08:00

CPVC Pipe Installation Tips From a Professional Plumber
People often have questions about installing CPVC pipe. They need new water lines and want to know if CPVC pipe is a good choice. Many want to know if it is really as easy to install CPVC plumbing as it looks. I mean, it requires no special tools and is really easy to put it together. You just glue it together, what could be easier?

Like most things in life, it's not quite that simple. The truth is, CPVC pipe is a perfectly good product and can be an excellent choice for water pipes, but you do need to know a few things to do it right. For starters, you need to be able to properly size the pipe in your system and you need to be able to design the piping layout efficiently. There are also some things you need to know about CPVC piping installations in particular.

Here are a few tips to help you get a good system.

Strap It Right
Strap CPVC every 4' horizontally and at least once between the floor and ceiling vertically. Use plastic support hooks and get the kind that hold the pipe a little off of the wood. CPVC expands and contracts like all plastic pipe and if it is fastened too tightly against the framing it can make a lot of popping and squeaking noises as time goes on.

Easy On The Glue
Don't use too much CPVC cement. Apply glue sparingly in the CPVC fitting. If you get too much glue in the fitting, when you push the pipe into the fitting the glue will get pushed into the joint. If there is enough glue pushed in it can actually dissolve the pipe and cause a failure. I have also seen it cause a kind of bubble of glue in the joint which dries and blocks the pipe. That's real fun to figure out when part of the system doesn't get water.

Use Brass or Copper Adapters
If you have to use any threaded connectors go ahead and pay the extra couple of dollars and get the kind that have brass or copper threads instead of the all plastic kind. Sioux Chief makes some really good ones. You may have to go to a plumbing supply to get these, most DIY stores don't have them.

Eliminate Loose Tub Valves
While you are at it, Sioux Chief makes some great other products for adapting CPVC to copper. I recommend using their preformed ells, along with sweat type tub/shower valves. Use copper for the tub spout piping and shower head riser and use the Sioux Chief ells for the inlet connections. This allows you to properly secure the tub/shower valves so they don't wiggle and wobble when you use them.

Securing Hose Faucets
Likewise, the Sioux Chief ells work great along with a sweat hosebibb. Hoses get pulled around a lot and this method really lets you secure the hose faucet so it doesn't get yanked out of the siding or brick.

Avoid Plastic Valves
One more tip. You can get shut off valves made entirely of CPVC. Don't use them, especially the gate valves. They are prone to leak. The only ones I would even consider are the Ball Valve type, and I have had problems with them. Go ahead and use real brass valves with the necessary adapters. Again check out Sioux Chief. (I promise I am not getting a commission from them). They are really good products that work.

Stay Away From Heat Sources
Don't run CPVC pipes too close to heat sources, such as can lights or flue vents. A good rule of thumb is to stay at least 12" away from these kinds of things.

Check All Products For Compatibility
Last of all make sure that any pipe dope or other chemicals that come into contact with any part of the piping system are approved and listed as safe for CPVC. Some chemicals can have a damaging effect on the plastic pipe, causing failures months and even years later. That doesn't mean CPVC is not a good product, just pay attention to what you use with it.

These tips should help your next CPVC project be a success!

Copper Use In Your House

2010-03-11T21:15:00.001-08:00

Copper Use In Your House
When thinking of precious metals most of us think of gold and platinum, almost everyone neglects to think of copper, which is, in fact, one of the most basic and common metal we encounter on a daily basis.

This red colored metal has been in use for many years, humanity has found copper and started using it already in Greek ancient times, this use of copper and other metals has evolved since ancient times, and as is the case in copper it has been used for more technological advanced things than the production of mirrors. Copper has a high electrical conductivity, and it reflects and its unique red orange color as it absorbers other frequencies.

Sharing many qualities of its family, copper is very much like silver and gold, all have high thermal and electrical conductivity. Copper is making its comeback for one very strange reason, it is a fact that in the last few years copper theft has been on the rise.

The use of copper has been so wide over the last few years that many have started stealing copper, in any form, to sell afterwards. Today we are dependent of copper, as a relatively cheap metal, for many different uses of everyday modern life and the need for cutting costs and lowering the cost of metals has produced this strange phenomena in which many people find different objects are stolen or stripped from their copper elements.

When you think of using copper in your home, or in your business you should consider the fact that you will need to maintain copper, much more than other metals it is sensitive to corrosion. The many other benefits of copper are that it is relatively cheap and easy to work with, that it has a nice look to it, and that it is, in many cases, a more robust alternative to other kinds of metals or products.

Copper awning for the business is one great solution for an awning needs, although you will need to take care of it a little more than other kinds of awning you will probably agree that it is the most attractive metal you can use.

If you are in the market for copper to use in your home improvement projects, you are probably making a right decision, copper is a great material to work with when you are doing home improvement tasks, and when you need to protect a pipe of an outing of any sorts you will find that copper is one of the most efficient metals you can use, it is not difficult to work with and you require no special expertise for success, you just need to start working with copper and you learn the rest by yourself.

Just one last word about copper, you probably realized half way through reading this that copper does have a very significant role in our lives, from our kitchens with their copper frying pans, pots, knives and forks, to coins and change made part of copper, pipes and awnings and many more products that we have become almost blind to, have copper in them.

Copper Sheet Buying Guide

2010-03-11T21:13:00.000-08:00

Copper Sheet Buying Guide
We are going to cover some rather technical terms like: alloy, temper, hardness, gauge and finish. Please stick with me through this brief article and you will really know what kind of copper you need for your application.

Alloy. Copper sheet, foil, bar, rod and tube is available in many different alloys. These different alloys give certain physical properties to copper it doesn’t usually have, but those new properties often bring new limitations as well. What makes the alloy discussion a little easier is that 99% of the copper sold in the United States is represented by the three alloys listed below.

Most of the copper sold today in the United States is alloy C11000, also known as Electrolytic-Tough-Pitch. Plain and simply, C11000 is 99.9% pure copper. It is an excellent electrical conductor, makes a fine looking kick plate on your front door, does a great job as a back splash in your kitchen, makes a very classy looking rain gutter and adorns some of the finest looking roofs in the world.

Copper used for tube and pipe is usually alloy C12200. You get this alloy by adding a very small amount of phosphorus to pure copper. This makes the copper easier to weld and braze. Unfortunately, it also makes the copper considerably less conductive. Generally speaking, you rarely see this alloy being used for electrical applications, but if you need to weld or braze, this alloy is your best option.

If you are going to turn or machine copper, C14500 is your alloy. If copper is alloyed with a small amount of tellurium it greatly improves the ability of copper to “make chips”. Pure copper (alloy C11000) tends to be “gummy” (I apologize for using such a technical term) when machining. This gumminess means you have to slow the machining process down quite a bit. Pure copper is also hard on machine tools, which adds to the expense of machining. C14500 is not quite as conductive as pure copper, but it is relatively close.

An interesting fact about copper alloys, if you add a little zinc to the metal - you get brass.

Temper. Basically, the Temper of a metal refers to its hardness. The two extremes of Temper are denoted as “hard” and “soft”. While the Copper Development Association has installed a numbering convention H01(soft) to H04(hard), most people in the industry simply refer to the degree of hardness. “Hey, I’ll take some ‘quarter-hard’ copper sheet,” is really all you have to say to your local copper mill* to call out the Temper.

So, why does anybody even worry about Temper? To a large degree, the hardness of the metal determines the application. If you were to make a beautiful pot rack out of soft Temper copper bars and chose to hang your grandmother’s favorite cast iron frying pan on your new creation, the weight of the frying pan could well deform the rack. Bottom line, if your copper project involves supporting any kind of weight, stick to harder Tempers.

On the other hand, if you are interested in making a copper etching or simply forming the copper by hand, you would be much better off with a softer Temper. Softer Tempers are also easier to cut as well. For decorative and craft applications that do not require supporting much weight, soft Temper should be your choice.

One final point about Temper, because of the end use of the product, copper bar is generally available only in the harder Tempers and copper sheet in softer Tempers. This has to do with how the two different forms of the metal are used.

Gauge, Oz. and Inches. Calling out the gauge of the metal is another way of saying the thickness. It is important to keep in mind that with gauge, the larger the number the thinner the material. 30 gauge copper sheet is much thinner than 16 gauge. To make matters even more confusing, the roofing industry measure copper thickness in ounces per square foot! 16 oz copper sheet is a very common size of roofing copper.

Finish. If you have ever walked in the lower level of a fancy department store and happened to see the gorgeous copper pots hanging in the kitchen department, you have seen an unnatural copper finish. Unless copper is treated with a synthetic lacquer, it will not have that deep mirror like finish. Also, if that lacquer finish should ever crack (even a very small one) and air reaches the copper, it will discolor fairly rapidly.

Generally, the finish of copper bar and sheet will provide a dull reflection. Occasionally, the metal will also have a slight waviness to it, although it will be very smooth. Over time the metal will darken with exposure to air. The oxygen in the air is actually corroding the metal. Over a number of years a greenish patina will form on the metal. Most people find the character gained by copper through this corrosion process to be quite attractive. As a matter of fact, you can actually purchase copper that has been treated with chemicals which greatly accelerate the corrosion process. If you want that greenish finish on that copper bay window roof right away, not a problem, chemical engineering has provided the product for you. If you would prefer more of a grayish patina, that’s available as well.

Copper Repipe and Leaky Pipes - Plumbers Are Best to Repair

2010-03-11T21:12:00.003-08:00

Copper Repipe and Leaky Pipes - Plumbers Are Best to Repair Any Plumbing Problems You May Have

Plumbing problems can cause you to have added stress, expense, and unhappiness in your life. Whether you live in a single family home, apartment, or have plumbing problems in your office, getting these issues resolved as quickly as possible is the most important thing on your mind.

Finding a plumbing company that is reliable, trustworthy, and knowledgeable is also something to think about. It seems like everyone has a story about a plumber who caused more damage than good. This typically happens when you wait until your situation is an emergency, instead of taking precautions and doing preventative maintenance of your plumbing system on a regular basis.

If your home is older than twenty five years or so, you may need to replace your zinc coated, galvanized pipes with copper repiping. If your water pressure is not what it used to be, having copper repipe installed by a professional plumbing company may be the answer.Clogged drains are also a problem that must be addressed on a regular basis. When your sink or toilet is clogged up, nothing is as important as having it fixed right away. We take our plumbing system for granted, so it is upsetting when something does not work the way it is supposed to. Drains can become clogged with hair, grease buildup, coffee grounds, sediment, and grime.

Leaky pipes also seem to happen at the worst possible moment. You must call a professional plumber right away to keep from sustaining even more damage to your plumbing system. Until the plumbers arrive, turn off your water at the main water valve. This keeps the water from entering your home even faster, resulting in a larger problem than you originally anticipated.

The plumbers will assess the size and location of the water leak before they begin to make any repairs. They will usually wait until the area around the leak is clean and as dry as possible. By allowing the area to air dry, rather than absorbing excess water, the affected areas may warp or become moldy.Before the plumbers arrive you may want to use some electrical tape to temporarily fix the leak, as long as it is a small one. Dry the area around the pipe with a towel to better allow for the electrical tape to adhere to the pipe. Begin about two inches away from the actual leak for best results.

Remember that any repairs you attempt to make are only temporary. It is always best to call in the professionals and plumbing repairs are no exception. Your home's plumbing system is more important than you may realize, so do not take it for granted. Instead, call your plumber and have them do a professional job that will last for years.

Consider PVC Deck Flower Railings

2010-03-11T21:12:00.001-08:00

Consider PVC Deck Flower Railings

Many people are stuck for ideas when it comes to improving their deck area. The good news is that there are many things that can be done to add that extra something special to the overall look of the deck. One of these things is a box deck flower railing which can look very impressive. It helps to give your decking area that sophisticated and finished look and it also helps to improve the atmosphere.

The deck is a place where people can escape, so it needs to be somewhere that makes you feel happy with the way that it looks. Adding extra to the deck railings can help you to really enjoy the surroundings a lot more. Something that can also help is by creating planters on the deck.

PVC railings

There are many different materials that can come into the equation with box deck flower railings and one of them is PVC. The reason that PVC is a great material to use is because it doesn’t splinter and it does not heat up like other materials do. This is great because you are unlikely to get burnt by it if you touch it on a very hot day. Not only this but PVC is resistant to ultra violet light and because of this, it will not fade over time. Not to mention that PVC is also waterproof and it is easy to manage. Because of all these great benefits, this really does make PVC a great choice when it comes to a box deck flower railing.

So, it has been established that PVC is great but something else that is also good is wood. A wooden box deck flower railing offers a brilliant and classic look and feel to it. There are many different types of wood that you can use in order to get the look that you require. Each will offer its own unique look so it all goes down to personal preference on what you prefer. Cedar is a great example of a good wood as it has natural preservatives and it is resistant to decay and from insects too. It is also better against moisture than most other woods are.

Have You Considered Composite Woods?

Another great wood to use would be composite woods because they offer beauty without lots of maintenance worries. They are also resistant to water, decay and also insects too. On top of all this, they will not splinter so they are a great material to use for box deck flower railings.

So, no matter what ever your situation, whether you live in a rural place with a nice view or overlooking an estate, box flower deck railings will certainly add something special to your deck.

Chimney Caps Tips on Buying, Measuring, and Use

2010-03-11T21:10:00.000-08:00

Chimney Caps Tips on Buying, Measuring, and Use

What is a Chimney Cap?
A chimney cap is a protective covering which fits at the top of your chimney enclosure. They are typically fashioned out of stainless steel, copper, or galvanized metals; and come designed with a mesh screen to inhibit airborne hearth sparks, nesting outdoor animals, and damaging precipitation and debris from interfering with the overall safety and longetivity of your fireplace’s necessary venting system.

Why is it so crucial to keep sparks confined to your chimney and these other elements out? While you are toasting marshmallows and sharing intimate discussions by the glow of your fireplace’s hearth, quite a bit more is happening in the venting chamber of your chimney. The sparks produced from burning wood or faux logs will sometimes reach to your chimney’s top, and if not properly stopped, can ignite the flammable material surrounding your chimney wall, such as your roof and house’s construction. And all it takes is one airborne spark. Nesting animals such as squirrels and birds can find a sheltered refuge in your chimney’s top, usually without anyone being the wiser… until it’s too late. A chimney cap prevents them and their detrimental waste from taking up residence, thereby preventing foul odors and the mites that waste brings. Your chimney top is also exposed to rain, snow, hail, and violent gusts of wind; year after year. Without a chimney cap to insulate your chimney from its effects, rain can soak into the mortar joints of your chimney’s construction, thereby loosening the bricks or stone of your masonry chimney. Or if you have a metal chimney, precipitation will lead to damaging rust; thereby rapidly deteriorating your chimney. Violent wind gusts whip leaves and assorted debris into your chimney.

These flammable materials can rapidly suffocate your flue from its necessary fire by-product venting, leading to dangerous chimney fires and downdrafting of the trapped smoke into your home. Buying a chimney cap is a priceless and easy solution to preventing a whole Pandora’s Box-full of natural evils, such as: fire, disease, costly repair, and strife from entering the safe harbor of your family’s cozy home.

Types of Chimneys
The first step in finding yourself a chimney cap is determining what type of chimney your house has. This will determine what type of chimney cap will fit best. The most common type of chimney is a masonry chimney, which is constructed of brick, stone, or concrete. Metal Chimneys or factory-built chimneys are mass-produced, typically come with a pre-fit chimney cap, and must be used with one, due to the fact that metal is less resilient in relation to Mother Nature’s elements. Typically, for masonry chimneys, you’ll find that their corresponding chimney caps come in three basic sizes: 8" x 8", 8" x 12" and 12" x 12", though custom styles and fits are available also.

Types of Flues
Whether you have a masonry or factory-made metal chimney, it is also necessary to determine what type of flue it works from. This can be determined by simply looking down into your chimney’s depths.

Masonry chimneys will have either single or multi flues, and these flues will be either extended or not. The most common is the single flue chimney with an extended flue. This flue will simply and visibly extend out the top of your chimney, allowing easy chimney cap installation and fit by screws which tighten to the flue’s construction. Single flue chimneys without extended flues have a recessed interior flue construction and will require what is called a leg kit or bracket to for installation of your chimney cap. The decision about whether you enlist a leg kit or brackets is yours, but brackets are recommended as they provide more resiliency under varying wind and weather conditions. Multi flue chimneys with or without extended flues will, as the type suggests, have more than one flue (typically two) either protruding from your chimney top or recessed in its interior.

Factory-produced Metal Chimney will have one of three basic types of flue construction: double-wall solid-pack insulated chimney pipe, double-wall air-insulated chimney pipe, or triple-wall air-insulated chimney pipe. Looking down into the chimney, you’ll see either two or three layers or walls of metal. If there is a metal cap or insulation material between these layers, you have yourself a solid-pack insulated flue system. If there is nothing but air between your flue walls, it is an air-insulated flue system.

Measuring
After determining what type of chimney and what type of flue you have, the next step is measurement of the flue system. Whether single or multi, extended or recessed, you will almost always need to know the precise width and length dimensions in order to accurately fit your chimney for a cap. Take the measurements a couple times to ensure accuracy, because being just a fraction of a size off, will negate all the purposes you’ve enlisted your chimney cap to demonstrate.

Masonry Chimneys:

· For a single flue with an extended flue: measure the width and length of the outside parameters of the flue, and match these to a specific chimney cap size.

· For a single flue without an extended flue: measure the width and length of the inside parameters of the flue, match to a specific chimney cap size, and order the corresponding leg kit or brackets.

· For multi flue systems with or without extended flues: measure the total outside width and length of the combined flues. If your multi-flue system has one or more extended flues, you must next measure how far the highest flue extends out the top of the chimney. It is crucial when choosing a cap for these systems that you depend upon the measurements of your total flue system, as well as the flues’ height measurements to see how deep your chimney cap should be.

Factory-made Metal Chimneys:

· For a double-wall solid-pack insulated flue system: measure the diameter of the inner pipe. Then, measure the diameter of the outer pipe. The inner dimensions will be used to secure the proper fit, while the outer dimensions will give a wider secondary cap protection for your flue.

· For a double or triple-wall air insulated flue system: measure the diameter of the inner pipe. Then, measure the diameter of the outer pipe. The inner dimensions will be used to secure the proper fit, while the outer dimensions will give a wider secondary cap protection for your flue.

Materials
Chimney caps come in a variety of materials depending on your aesthetic, function, and cost preferences. Galvanized metal flue caps are the most cost-effective and simple choice; but provide basic function without regard to aesthetics, will rust, and won’t last past the short-term. Stainless steel chimney cap construction is more middle-of-the-road cost-wise, and subsequently offers a more gratifying visual appeal, and will last much longer through varying elements and time. Copper chimney caps are the most expensive choice, but because of this offer: a hard-enduring quality, can be weathered naturally or coated with a special copper protectant to maintain the original color and shine. Stainless steel and copper constructed chimney caps do, more often than not, come with an extended warranty; and are the best way to go in the way of your chimney’s longetivity and your home and family’s safety.

Chimney Cap Types
Chimney caps also come in a variety of functions according to your cap preferences. There is the standard chimney cap which typically includes a screening material to further ward off elements and critters, is the most cost-effective, comes in a variety of materials, and takes care of your most basic chimney needs as far as insulation and protection is concerned. Draft increasing caps or vacuum chimney caps are more specific to a chimney that has difficulty, for one reason or another, drafting smoke up and out of your home. These chimney caps produce a stronger updraft, and are most often used with metal chimneys, though those with masonry chimneys can employ specific manufacturer adapters. There are two different options to cure this common chimney affliction.

You can either employ what is called a flue stretcher which will extend the length of your flue and remove it from the influence of nearby or dual chimneys. This is a great option if you live in a dense city or have multi-floor fireplaces. Another option is a device which will decrease the downdraft by deflecting it within special cap fins, and subsequently suck excessive smoke out of your chimney. You may opt for a cap with an integral damper mechanism to replace a missing or loose-fitting damper system in your chimney. This type of chimney cap, once in place, will cap the previously wasted energy, restore the necessary damper functions, and insulate your home from the elements. Most come complete with a lever you’ll need to install on your fireplace wall, which activates effective use of the damper. Typically, those with older fireplaces will enlist these dual-purpose caps to gently restore an older fireplace.

Buying or Building Your Own Water Fountain

2010-03-11T21:08:00.002-08:00

Buying or Building Your Own Water Fountain

Things to Consider
A great deal about fountains has changed over the last decade. Now there are really high class ones made of copper, bronze, concrete, and stone, and some fairly nice ones made of resin and fiberglass. There are several things to consider, though. As a pump wholesaler, I speak with fountain owners all the time and also look at lots of samples of fountains at trade shows and in magazines. Before purchasing a fountain, there are quite a few questions to ask. What looks good in a store might not look good at your home or business. Or it might look good for the first month or year but then you’ll get tired of it. Fountains are usually around for a long time; in fact, concrete and stone ones last centuries and are hard to remove once they’re installed. Here are things to consider.

Bronze Fountains
These are at the high end of fountains, and can retail for ten to twenty thousand dollars. They are plain classy. But will one of these fit in where you want to put it? Do you have the right yard or business or location for such a classic kind of display? Also, do you like the aging process (the verdigris patina) that bronze undergoes. Can you afford one of these? If you answered yes to these questions, a bronze fountain might be right for you. It will last your lifetime, your kids’ lifetimes, their kids’ lifetimes, etc. And they are durable enough to be moved from house to house.

Copper Fountains
Like bronze fountains, these too tend to be classy, especially the name brand ones like Water Wonders, which mix copper with glass and slate. These make especially nice wall fountains. We have been selling Water Wonders fountains for several years at Fountain Mountain. There are certain things to think about, though. Are you locating the fountain in a room with good acoustics? Some rooms make the pump noise really echo, especially small rooms with walls that are close together. Do you know someone or can you hire an electrician to hide the cord in the wall? These fountains are a bit too expensive to buy if you’re going to let the cord run outside the wall for everyone to see. Finally, it is a good idea to go listen to them run at a store before purchasing. Some of them make little water noise and some make a lot. To increase water sound you might have to turn up the pump to the point of there being slight splash. But if you are careful and go to a store with Water Wonders or other copper fountains on display before purchasing, and are happy with what you see and hear, these are great fountains.

Concrete Fountains
These still provide the most bang for the buck, primarily because concrete is so inexpensive. In fact, a huge part of the cost of concrete fountains is in transporting them to stores for sale and in the labor of painting them. The concrete itself is the least expensive part of the fountains’ manufacture. There are some differences in how they are made, though. Some companies, like Brandelli’s, use a “light” mix: their fountains are not nearly as heavy as those produced by, say, Avila’s. Also, some companies like Brandelli’s, use a stain over concrete, whereas others, like Avila’s or Lomelli’s, use paints (usually more than one at a time) or stains. Also, most concrete companies (though not all) reinforce their fountains with steel.

This makes them strong but also means the concrete must be sealed. If not painted (as most fountains from Mexico are not), then they do need to have a clear sealant put on them. Otherwise the water will seep through to the steel, which will rust. Eventually, the fountain is likely to crack. One final word of advice on concrete, beware of “cute.” Cute fountains (mama dogs with baby dogs, boys peeing) sometimes don’t look so cute over time. Ask yourself if you’ll still think the fountain is cute years later. Remember, concrete fountains can last hundreds of years. And they are difficult to move so pick something that will stay put. The traditional Italian 3-tier fountain is always a safe bet.

Resin and Fiberglass Fountains
The quality of these has gotten a lot better, and they have the clear advantage of being more easily handled than concrete ones. Some do look like concrete and stone, though they tend to look much more realistic at first glance than they do after a week has passed. Then it is pretty clear that they are faux. These are also a lot easier on employees who work in tores, as they don’t have to worry as much about their backs. We would sell these at our store but just don’t like their looks as well as the real thing.

Stone Fountains
These look incredibly good or mediocre. The handcrafted stone fountains out of Mexico and many of the large ones out of China are beautiful. But there are also mass-produced stone fountains, which use crushed stone mixed with resin. These just don’t look like real stone to us even though they are.

Making Your Own Water Fountain
There are lots of ways to make your own fountains. The easiest way, perhaps, is to place a pump in a small tub or on some liner. Then place a wire or plastic grate on top of the tub or the liner, and layer pebbles, rocks, etc. over the wire or plastic grate. Your pump and plumbing will be hidden! No one will no where your water is coming from. You can then connect black PVC piping to the pump (black sprinkler pipe is incredibly inexpensive yet professional looking) and let the water rise up seemingly out of rocks in your yard. You won’t have to worry much about pets as the water source is covered with stones. Likewise, you won’t have to worry about kids drowning. You can also build a little waterfall over such a pit if you want, just throwing in boulders to hide your electric and tubing, etc. Some people use bamboo for spouts. You can also drill holes through slate (we’ve found it’s really easy if you soak the slate for a day first). Slate is so porous, however, you ought to seal it once you’re done drilling. You can also find rocks in nature that already have holes in them.

How Big of a Pump do I need?
Basically, if you buy a fountain at a store you should have instructions on the best size pump for that particular piece of garden art. If you are making your own fountain, here is a rule of thumb: for every inch of width you need to pump 100 gallons per hour. But note that a100 gallon per hour pump is not pumping the same volume at one foot head (elevation above the pump), two feet head, three feet, and so forth. If you are making your own fountain, it is likely you will have to guess which size to buy, and you might be wrong the first time you build one. Most pumps are adjustable but often can be adjusted down only a bit. However, magnetic-driven pumps, the most common kind, are inexpensive and durable. You can find them online at many wholesale pumps outlets.

Benefits Of Planet PVC Windows

2010-03-11T21:08:00.001-08:00

Benefits Of Planet PVC Windows
PVC windows come in a variety of different styles and are available with a choice of additional features and colour finishes. One of the most important decisions you will have to make when selecting windows for your home is which type of window you wish to purchase. There are primarily two main types of window available. These are sash windows and casement windows. Casement windows are without doubt more popular when it comes to PVC windows and are ordinarily hinged on the side and open inwards or outwards. Sash windows are more traditional and have an up and down slide mechanism that allows you to lock the window at the top.

The basic structure of a PVC window is a frame that has a membrane running between two sheets of double glazed glass. The material used to make PVC windows is a hardwearing durable vinyl that is low maintenance and can be constructed cost efficiently using advanced manufacturing technologies. The strength of both the glass and the vinyl material help increase the security on your home as PVC windows are usually more complicated to break into than other wooden framed single-glazed windows. All PVC windows generally come equipped with multi-point locking mechanisms to tighten security further.

There are various advantages to be gained by installing PVC windows. The main advantage is that they provide better insulation and can reduce energy bills dramatically once installed. The reason for this is that they are designed with superb weather seals and energy efficient glass that helps to keep heat in and condensation out. Most windows also come with a special locking system that allows you to lock the window even when it is half-open in order to allow for better air circulation. They are also extremely easy to maintain and can be kept looking clean and tidy simply by wiping them down with soap and water.

High quality PVC windows that are correctly fitted can not only add value to your home but additionally make it more aesthetically pleasing, but like any other major home improvement project choosing the right company to complete the work can be daunting. It is therefore important that you employ an experienced company that can provide you with the right advice and direction and leave you with a product that you are satisfied with. Planet Conservatories, Windows and Doors are highly qualified and proficient company that has one of the finest collections of PVC windows around.

Apparent Leakage in PVC Pipe

2010-03-11T21:07:00.000-08:00

Apparent Leakage in PVC Pipe
Gasketed PVC pipe is very popular today across North America for underground water mains as well as sewage force mains. As is the case for all pipelines, regardless of material, post-construction testing is usually demanded to ensure all new lines have been installed properly.One test that is common for gasketed pipe such as PVC is the combined ‘leakage and pressure’ test. This test is intended to verify both the pressure capacity and the joint tightness of the pipe system simultaneously.

The procedure of this test is to first fill a section of the line with water. Next, additional water is pumped into the line until the section is elevated to a desired test pressure. The system is then closed and held for a specified test period, typically 2 hours.During this 2 hours, it is possible that the system pressure may drop. If the pressure drop is rapid during testing, it is likely that a significant leak is present in the system. This could most times be attributed to an improper assembly of an appurtenance, pipe joint or service connection.

However, assuming that proper installation and assembly were performed, it is possible to have a very slight drop in pressure over the 2 hours. To establish a limit for a permissible pressure drop, a table of ‘Allowable Leakage Volumes’ was created. This table indicates the maximum volume of water permitted to be added back to the system after a pressure/leakage test has indicated a slight pressure drop. (The actual table of values may be found in the IPEX PVC Pressure Pipe Installation Guide or in AWWA C605).

For instance, for 1000 m of 300 mm gasketed PVC water main, a maximum volume of 7.6 L of make-up water (theoretically, the leakage occurring during the test) is permitted to be added for a 1035 kPa test (equivalent to 2.0 US gal. for 3300 ft. of 12” pipe tested at 150 psi). If larger volumes of water are required, the test is considered to be a failure and the installer must locate and repair any system deficiencies.

As a result of this table of ‘leakage’ allowances, many individuals have a perception that gasketed joint PVC is always leaking to some degree. In actual fact, properly assembled PVC pipe will be bottle-tight.

This claim is verified by the rigorous testing performed on the gasketed joint at the manufacturing plant. Gasketed PVC pressure joints, to be certified to CSA B137.3, and to conform to ASTM D 3139, must undergo the following 2 tests :

(a) 60 minutes at 2.5 times the pressure rating of pipe (i.e. 588 psi for DR18)

(b) 60-70 seconds at 3.2 times the pressure rating of pipe (i.e. 755 psi for DR18)

Both of these tests are conducted while the joint is offset to its maximum recommended angle to simulate a worst-case field condition. Zero leakage is permitted at the joints during these tests. The consistency and precision found in the extrusion of PVC pipe, coupled with the very strict dimensional tolerances, ensure that the gasketed joint will be fully as reliable in the field as is proven in the plant.

One example of PVC’s joint tightness was illustrated on a project recently completed outside Vancouver in Delta, British Columbia. B&B Contracting of Surrey was contracted to construct 4500 m (15,000 ft.) of 400 mm (16”) PVC DR18 water main as a supply main to the newly constructed DeltaPort Container Terminal.

After completing installation, Project Superintendent Rollie Knackstead showed tremendous confidence in the workmanship of his crew, as well as the pipe, by deciding to pressure-test the entire 4500 metres of pipe at once. The results were exceptional. B&B successfully tested the line at 200 psi for 2 hours with not a drop of leakage. The gauge did not budge off of the 200 psi level. The bottle-tight joints of PVC helped to make an already successful installation into a very successful overall project.

If during a pressure/leakage test on PVC, the pressure drops slightly (within allowable make-up water volumes), does this mean that there has been leakage? Perhaps, but in-plant testing of PVC pipe as well as numerous case histories such as B&B Contracting's project in Delta, seem to indicate that properly assembled PVC pipe will not be leaking.

So why does there occasionally need to be small volumes of make-up water after a pressure test? Here are 4 possible reasons:

(a) entrapped air

(b) shifting of tees or elbows before joint restraints function

(c) faulty connections for valves, fittings, hydrants or services

(d) radial expansion of the PVC pipe

In fact, radial expansion is such a significant factor with one other thermoplastic piping material (HDPE) that its test limit is specifically identified as an ‘Expansion Allowance’, rather than a ‘Leakage Allowance’. It is also interesting to note that if one does a comparison, the actual values of allowable make-up water are found to be significantly greater with butt-fused HDPE than those for gasketed PVC pipe for equivalent pipe sections and test pressures.

In summary, the reader is advised that many times a more proper term for ‘Leakage’ is ‘Apparent Leakage’ or 'Make-Up water Allowance' when analyzing the test results of a PVC pressure pipeline. Evidence suggests that properly assembled gasketed PVC pipe will have virtually zero leakage. The fact that PVC will not be weakened over time from corrosion attacks will ensure that the bottle-tight joints of today will remain that way for many years to come.

Gordon Lefort is a Professional Engineer (Mechanical) employed with IPEX Inc., Canada's largest plastic pipe manufacturer and has over 20 years experience with the design and installation of underground plastic pipelines.

Aluminum Frames Vs PVC Or Wood - Are They Worth the Extra Cost

2010-03-11T21:06:00.000-08:00

Aluminum Frames Vs PVC Or Wood - Are They Worth the Extra Cost
Having lived with all three types of windows and patio doors in the past three years, I feel that I am an 'expert user' when it comes to opening and closing in each medium: wood, pvc and aluminium.

First, the novice's choice: wood. It looks great, feels warm, can be stained a medium or dark shade or painted any colour of the spectrum. It's an age-old medium so what can go wrong? The main problems are humidity and strong sunlight.There are varying qualities of wood on offer, depending on your budget. A moderately-priced pair of French doors on a south-facing house wall suffered a degree of warping, creating gaps that had to be plugged each winter in an attempt to keep the cold draughts at bay whereas, in warmer damp circumstances, the door had to be forcibly pushed and pulled back into its aperture.

Two good summers and the four coats of varnish had virtually vapourised, revealing cracking wood that needed nourishing and protecting from the next couple of years' weather.

Second, the double-glazing salesman's special offer: PVC. Overpriced by a couple of well-known companies who then discount by 50% if you hesitate, PVC is also available in varying qualities. At the higher end of the market, the frames are often reinforced with metal.

Generally with more features than wooden doors and windows, PVC should not require much more than a quick wipe with a damp cloth for the first few years and its looks are therefore easier to maintain. We have some PVC French Doors from the lower price range. As value for money, they are quite good but an element of trust is lacking in terms of defence against determined intruders. They feel floppy and flimsy when opening and closing and there's a knack to locking and unlocking them successfully. We have older PVC doors from the higher price range and, whilst more sturdy (reinforced with metal) they are looking a tad ratty.

The PVC windows screeched with wind whistling through, like semi-detached tinnitus.

Thirdly and finally, the long term investment: powder-coated aluminium frames. If you are fed up with sanding down wooden frames and considering the easy option of PVC or coated aluminium, particularly for a wide opening with multi-folding doors. Consider whether PVC is up to the task of substituting for the wall of your house.

Stand back and look through closed doors at the difference between PVC and aluminium - it is very noticeable. With PVC, there are windows of scenery between wide areas of plastic (two frames together might measure between 8 and 10 inches, 20 to 25cms) so the doors block up to 20 per cent of the potential view and light-source.

Adorn Your PVC Railings with Window Boxes

2010-03-11T21:05:00.000-08:00

Adorn Your PVC Railings with Window Boxes
Deck railings don't have to be plain. There are many touches that can be added. One of the most interesting and attractive additions that can be made is a box deck flower railing. The railing on your deck can be plain or it can add a beautiful
finished look that will add to your home as a haven of peace and beauty. If you can add a touch that can achieve that look, you can add to the beauty of the view from your home.

This is what a box deck flower railing can do for your home. These types of railings can be made from many types of materials. A popular material for this purpose is PVC. Material such as PVC or other vinyl construction are perfect for this purpose because the smooth edges of PVC will not splinter as wood can. When you are working in the window box, you do not want to take a chance on getting a splinter as you are doing your window box gardening. PVC is very long lasting and does well in hot weather. If you have ever had a metal window box, you know how important this can be if you don't want to be burned. PVC is also resistant to ultraviolet light. It will not fade in the sunlight as so many other materials do. PVC is completly waterproof and just about maintenance free. It is one of the most perfect choices for box deck flower railings.

Another good choice that is available for box deck flower railings is wood. If you want a classic look, wood is the look for you. Each type of wood has is own personality or style. Cedar is a good choice since it is naturally resistant to decay and insect infestation. Cedar can be exposed to moisture for long periods of time without suffering any adverse affects.

Composite woods are another option for box deck flower railings. They offer the ease of low maintenance with the classic look of wood. Unlike wood, however, they resist decay and insects, and light and water will not damage them. Composite woods do not splinter like regular wood.

Whether you own a mega mansion or a little flat in the city, your railing will benefit from the beauty of a box deck flower railing to bring the beauty of nature closer to your home.

A Primer on Plumbing Pipes

2010-03-11T21:03:00.000-08:00

A Primer on Plumbing Pipes
Some time in the past 30 or 40 years, I remember an initiative to get truth in advertising. I don't know how successful it was, but one industry that apparently wasn't affected by it is the plumbing industry. I can't think of any other industry that has as many definitions for what a 1/2" or any other size pipes are.

One would think that 1/2" copper tubing would be the same, no matter what, but the sad truth is that 1/2" rigid copper pipe has a different outer diameter ( OD), then 1/2" flexible copper pipe. Fittings for one will not work on the other. If you want to use both you would have to purchase an adapter. The same thing can be said for plastic pipe, a piece of 1" black ABS pipe is not the same size as 1" white PVC plastic pipe. Again to use both, a home owner would need a buy an adapter.

To help eliminate some of the confusion, here is a primer on plumbing fittings and connections.

Rigid Copper Pipe:
Used mostly for hot and cold water lines within the house. The best tool to cut rigid copper tubing is a pipe cutter. The pipe is placed in the cutter, and the knob is turned down, which brings the pipe into contact with the cutter wheel. As the cutter is rotated around the pipe, you continue to tighten the wheel, until you have cut through the entire pipe.

There are two ways to connect copper pipes together. The first is to solder or sweat the pipes together. The second is the use of compression fittings. Soldered fittings are much less expensive then the compression, but take a little more work to make a leak free joint.

When you sweat copper pipes, the first thing is to clean the ends that you are going to sweat together. then flux is applied to both the pipe and the fitting you are connecting to it. The pieces are placed together, and heat is applied to the union with a propane torch. When the union is heated enough, solder is applied to the joint, the solder is sucked into the joint, sealing the two pieces together. From experience, I can tell you take to make this work successfully, there must be absolutely NO WATER in the line, if there is the joint will leak. And once a joint leaks , there is no repairs without replacing the fitting and starting over. Professional plumbers tend to use a hotter source of heat, then the propane bottle can provide. But I'm always concerned about using any heat source inside my house. If you choose this method, be very careful with the torch in tight spaces. It might be a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy.

Compression fittings do not require heat. A common place that compression fittings are used is at the water shut off valves beneath your sink, or toilet. But there are many other places that you can use them. To make up a fitting using a compression fitting, start by cutting the inlet pipe to length, using a pipe cutter. Place the compression nut and compression ring over the end of the pipe, as shown above, then insert the pipe into the compression seat. Then using two wrenches, one to hold the fitting and the other for the compression nut, tighten the compression nut completely. This forces the compression ring unto the pipe, creating a water tight seal.

Compression fittings are not fool proof. If the pipe is not seated all the way onto the seat, the joint will leak, thus it is imperative that the end of the pipe be cut flat. Compression fitting are designed as a one use only device, if it leaks cut out the offending piece and start over again. Also the pipe must be completely cleaned before you start, any dirt or corrosion on the pipe will create leaks. Tightening the compression nut in confined spaces may require to use of special tools like crows feet wrenches.

Flexible Copper Pipe:
This is used mainly to connect natural or propane gas to your house. It is normally connected to the appropriate devices with the use of compression fitting designed for the flexible pipes. Flexible copper pipe is suitable for being installed under ground. Flexible copper pipe may look like a great choice for indoors plumbing runs, but it is not recommended for that use. Also the limited amount of fittings available make this a less then perfect choice. Flexible copper fitting are NOT interchangeable with fittings for rigid copper pipe.

Some professional plumbers are currently installing flexible water pipes, but these require special tools and fittings, that are not available to the DIY'r. Not all municipalities allow for the use of flexible pipes for water delivery with in the home.

Rigid Pipe:
This pipe comes in either black iron or galvanized pipe. Black iron pipe is normally used to run natural gas inside the home, while galvanized is used mainly for water lines. The ends of these pipes are threaded, as are the connecting pieces. You simply screw the pieces together, after applying either plumber's tape or pipe dope.

Plumber's tape is made of Teflon, and is white in color. You should apply it to the male end of the pipe, by running the tape around the pipe several times. Install the tape in the opposite direction, then the male end of the pipe will thread into the female union. Before you thread the two pieces together, be sure to clean out any remaining Teflon tape on the inside of the female threads if you are re using the fitting. There is a Pink Teflon tape, that used solely for making up connection is natural gas lines. Pipe dope, is actually a thick paste that is applied to the threads using a brush. If you are reusing a fitting that has had pipe dope applied before, you must clean both the male and female threads, using a wire brush and a pick, much like the ones that the dentist uses to clean our teeth.

To connect two pieces of pipe together or to install an adapter or fitting, use two pipe wrenches. The first wrench is used to hold the pipe, while the second one is used to turn the fitting or adapter. While you may not use a pipe wrench all that often, this is not the place to go for the bargain priced tool. Sometimes it takes considerable energy to loosen a threaded joint that has been in place for several years. The cheaper wrenches tend to slip, which can cause injury to you or cause damage to you home.

Recently galvanized pipes have gotten some bad press, when used for water delivery. Apparently the insides of the pipes are releasing chemicals into the drinking water, so it is advised that you stick to either copper or the newer flexible pipes for water delivery.

Plastic or PVC/ABS Pipes:
PVC ( Polyvinyl Chloride) pipe is a white plastic pipe that is used to supply both hot and cold water to the interiors of many homes. This product is very flexible and easy to use. There are two ways to cut PVC pipe, either use a hand saw or miter saw to cut large diameter pieces. Smaller diameter pieces can be cut using hand held PVC cutters. To connect PVC pieces, you first cut the pipe to length, then using a cleaning solution designed for the pipe, clean both the ends of the pipe and the connecting piece. A special glue is then applied to both pieces, and the pieces are pushed together. The glue sets, within a minute, so it is vitally important that the pieces be aligned properly when pushed together. There is a very limited amount of time that you can maneuver the pieces. It is a very good idea to use a scribe line to indicate to proper orientation of two mating pieces.

ABS ( Arcylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is a black plastic pipe that is used for drain, waste and vent (DWV) plumbing in today's homes. This product replaced the cast iron pipes found in many older homes. ABS is worked in much the same manner as the PVC pipe. It can be cut with hand saw or powered miter saw. It uses a cleaner and glue similar to the PVC pipes, only this is designed for the ABS pipes.

When you are gluing either of these products, it is recommended that you use a pair of disposable gloves to protect you hand, unless you like picking dried glue off your hands for several days. Also it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area.Generally, you will not see both white and black plastic pipes connected together. One exception to this is maybe found under the sink. A lot of manufacturers are making "P" traps, shown here in black ABS, for the sink drains out of white plastic.

Because of its flexibility you may find homes in earth quake areas plumbed with PVC rather then the conventional rigid copper pipes. There was a lot of bad press in the 90's about PVC pipes breaking within the walls of homes, this was traced to specific manufacturers, and shouldn't be seen as a condemnation of the product.

How to Connect PVC Pipe to Copper Pipe | eHow.com

2010-03-04T21:30:00.000-08:00

How to Connect PVC Pipe to Copper Pipe | eHow.com
By esplainer

Transition to PVC pipe from copper pipe by connecting a PVC threaded female adapter to a copper male threaded adapter. This connection allows you to use much less expensive PVC line to lay a sprinkler or irrigation system, a domestic water supply line or a swimming pool plumbing system. To make a solid, leak free plumbing connection, follow these steps.

Step 1Turn the water supply off and hacksaw the copper pipe off at the point where you want to attach the PVC line. Let the water drain out completely.

Step 2Dry the copper line inside and out with a rag, then use the emery cloth to sand the copper to about 2 inches back from the cut. Make sure the cut is smooth and last 2 inches of the copper pipe is shiny and clean all the way around.

Step 3Hold the copper male adapter by the threads and sand the inside surface of the slip end (the end opposite from the threads) with the emery cloth until the entire inside surface is shiny and clean.

Step 4Brush a thin coat of soldering flux around the copper pipe to about 1 inch back from the cut. Apply a thin coat of the flux around the entire inside surface of the copper male adapter slip joint.

Step 5Slide the slip side of the copper male adapter onto the copper pipe as far as it will go and twist it a half turn to make sure the flux is evenly distributed on both the pipe and the inside of the slip joint.

Step 6Apply heat with the propane torch evenly around the entire circumference of the slip joint. When the flux begins to melt and drip from the connection, apply the solder to the point where the fitting and the pipe meet. Continue to apply heat and be sure the solder melts and flows into the joint evenly all the way around.

Step 7Allow the copper fitting and pipe to cool, then wrap Teflon tape several times evenly around the copper threads. Cover all the threads.

Step 8Turn the PVC threaded female adapter onto the copper male threads and tighten it with your hand until you can no longer turn it. Use the pipe wrench to finish tightening the joint.

Step 9Prime the inside of the PVC slip joint with Purple Primer. To attach the PVC pipe, prime the outside of the PVC pipe with Purple Primer, then coat both the outside of the PVC pipe and the inside of the PVC slip joint with PVC pipe cement. Slide the PVC pipe into the PVC slip joint as far as it will go and hold it in place for a minute until the cement sets.

Tips & Warnings
Clean, dry surfaces are the key to making good, solid solder joints with copper.Use schedule 40 or schedule 80 PVC fittings and pipe, especially on any pressurized system, such as a water supply line or a pool plumbing system.Never connect a PVC male adapter to a copper female adapter. In the presence of heat or water friction, PVC can shrink dramatically and the joint will eventually fail.Check your local building code to be sure PVC is acceptable for the application you are installing or repairing.

Copper Pipes Product and Fitting Help

2010-03-04T21:28:00.000-08:00

Copper Pipes -Copper Pipe Product and Fitting Help

Copper is used in making pipes because it is non-toxic and resistant to corrosion. Copper is so widely used in the pipe industry that for the last 75 years, our water has traveled through a copper pipes. Every year, about a billion feet of copper pipes are installed throughout the United States. Add up the lengths of all the copper pipes ever installed in this country since 1963, and you’ll get more than five million miles.

Why copper?
Some modern plumbing systems now use plastic, but copper pipes are still widely used for most water feeds and central heating pipe work. Copper is still the preferred piping material in the piping industry because of its exclusive properties.

For one, copper is comparatively safer than lead – it is nontoxic and does not harm water. Unlike iron, copper is also very resistant to rust. Aside from this, copper is fairly malleable and easier to transform.

Copper pipe sizes
The size of copper pipes depends on its use. Micro-bore central heating systems usually use 8 and 10 mm copper pipes. Bigger copper pipes (about 12 and 15 mm) are normally used for connecting to separate taps, appliances and other similar uses. Even bigger copper pipes (22, 28 and 35 mm) are used for projects that require long runs – ones that 15 mm copper pipes cannot handle without dropping pressure.

Copper pipes are available in a range of lengths. Bigger trade outlets usually sell copper pipes of three to four meter lengths, but smaller hardware stores and do-it-yourself shops carry copper pipe lengths as short as one and a half to two meters.

Some notes about copper pipe sizes
Some countries (such as the United Kingdom) use the ‘imperial’ sizing system, meaning, the inner diameter of the pipe is measured. In the United States, copper pipes are measured based on their outer diameter. As a general rule, a 0.5 inch copper pipe (measured using the imperial system) is the same as the 15mm copper pipe measured using the metric system).